Which Car Model Years to Avoid: 2025 Used-Car Reliability Guide

There isn’t a single universal list of “bad” years for every car, but shoppers should be cautious with first model-years after a full redesign and with models tied to well-documented defects. Notably problematic clusters include: 2007–2014 Nissan CVT vehicles (plus 2013–2016 Pathfinder), 2011–2016 Ford Focus/Fiesta with PowerShift dual-clutch, 2011–2019 Hyundai/Kia with Theta II engine failures, 2014–2019 GM 8-speed automatics (shudder), 2006–2009 Honda Civic (cracked blocks), 2007–2011 Toyota 2.4L oil consumption (Camry/RAV4), 2011–2015 Subaru engines with oil consumption, 2008–2014 VW/Audi 2.0T timing-chain tensioners, 2017–2019 Ford 2.0/2.3 EcoBoost coolant intrusion, 2014–2017 ZF 9‑speed rough shifting in several brands, 2016–2018 Honda/2017–2018 CR‑V 1.5T oil dilution, and early Tesla issues (2012–2014 Model S MCU, early 2018 Model 3 build quality). Below is a deeper, model-agnostic guide to understanding which years to avoid and why.

Why some model years are riskier than others

Automakers introduce major redesigns and new powertrains on a cadence that can front-load defects into early production. Factors include immature components (new transmissions, engine families, or software), supply-chain shifts, cost-cutting, and rushed timelines. Regulatory changes, like new emissions or safety rules, can also trigger rushed hardware or software rollouts that get refined only after a year or two of real-world feedback.

Widely reported “avoid” years by issue cluster

Early continuously variable transmissions (CVTs), especially Nissan

Throughout the late 2000s and early-to-mid 2010s, several CVTs suffered from overheating, judder, and premature failure. Nissan’s widespread use of Jatco CVTs led to extended warranties and numerous complaints.

• Nissan: 2007–2014 Altima, Sentra, Versa/Versa Note, Rogue; 2013–2016 Pathfinder (notable CVT failures and shudder)
• Other brands had isolated CVT teething issues, but Nissan volumes made problems more visible

Later calibrations and hardware updates improved reliability in many lines; still, meticulous service records and a thorough test drive are essential for any CVT-equipped used car from these years.

Ford PowerShift dual-clutch automatics (DPS6)

Ford’s dry-clutch dual-clutch gearbox (DPS6) in small cars drew sustained complaints about shuddering, harsh shifts, and clutch wear, leading to lawsuits and extended coverage.

• 2011–2016 Ford Fiesta and Ford Focus (some 2017 fleet/overlap units also affected)

Many were repaired multiple times; the best practice is to avoid, or buy only with proof of recent, successful clutch/transmission repairs and a strong warranty.

Hyundai/Kia Theta II engine failures and fire risk

Metal debris from manufacturing and oiling issues led to bearing wear, engine knock, stalling, and, in some cases, fire risk. Multiple recalls and software knock sensors were rolled out, with ongoing coverage expansions through the late 2010s and early 2020s.

• 2011–2019 Hyundai/Kia models with 2.0L/2.4L GDI Theta II (e.g., Sonata, Santa Fe Sport, Tucson; Optima, Sportage, Sorento)

Only consider examples with verified recall completion, software updates, and ideally a documented engine replacement and extended warranty acknowledgement.

GM 8-speed automatics (8L45/8L90) “shudder”

Early calibrations and fluid formulation caused torque-converter shudder and harsh shifting. GM later introduced a revised fluid and procedures; litigation followed.

• 2014–2019 Chevrolet, GMC, Cadillac with 8-speed RWD/AWD (e.g., Silverado/Sierra, Camaro, Corvette, Colorado/Canyon V6, Cadillac ATS/CTS/CT6, Escalade)

Post-2019 builds and vehicles serviced with the updated flush and TSB procedures tend to fare better. Confirm service history and test for low-speed shudder.

ZF 9-speed (9HP) rough/erratic shifting

The ZF 9HP brought fuel-economy gains but early software and mechanical quirks led to lurching and gear-hunting in various brands.

• 2014–2017 Jeep Cherokee/2015–2017 Renegade; 2015–2017 Chrysler 200
• 2015–2017 Acura TLX (V6 9AT), some Honda/Fiat models with 9HP

Later software updates improved behavior; still, drive multiple examples and check for recent TSB calibrations before buying.

Subaru oil consumption and earlier head-gasket issues

Subaru’s older EJ25 engines had head-gasket problems; early FB-series engines added notable oil consumption complaints. CVT extensions were also issued for some models.

• Head gaskets: many 1999–2010 EJ25 Outback/Forester/Legacy (older now but still common in the market)
• Oil consumption: roughly 2011–2015 FB engines in Impreza/Forester/Outback/Legacy

2015+ revisions reduced issues. Seek compression/leak-down results and oil-consumption proofs; verify CVT extended coverage status by VIN.

Honda-specific trouble spots

Honda remains broadly reliable, but a few model-year clusters stand out for specific defects.

• 2006–2009 Civic: engine block cracking (1.8L), extended warranties on some VINs
• 2016–2018 Civic 1.5T and 2017–2018 CR‑V 1.5T: fuel/oil dilution in cold climates (mitigations improved from 2019)
• Early ZF 9-speed in Acura TLX (see ZF section above)

Prefer 2019+ for the 1.5T in cold regions, and confirm any block-related replacements in 8th‑gen Civics.

Toyota oil consumption on 2AZ-FE

While Toyota’s record is strong, its 2.4L 2AZ-FE four-cylinder had oil-consumption issues in certain years; some campaigns and warranty enhancements were issued.

• 2007–2011 Camry; some 2006–2012 RAV4; certain Scion xB/tC using 2AZ-FE

Well-kept examples can still be good buys, but monitor oil level, review service records, and verify any piston/ring-related repairs.

VW/Audi timing-chain tensioner failures (EA888 Gen 2 2.0T)

Early EA888 Gen 2 2.0T engines suffered timing-chain tensioner failures that could lead to catastrophic damage. Many were updated or repaired, sometimes under goodwill or settlement.

• Approx. 2008–2014 VW/Audi with 2.0 TSI (A4/A5/Q5, GTI, Jetta/GLI, Passat, Tiguan)

Confirm the updated tensioner/chain was installed, verify oil-change history, and consider a pre-purchase inspection focused on cam/crank correlation and chain stretch.

Ford EcoBoost coolant intrusion (open-deck blocks)

Some 2.0L/2.3L EcoBoost engines experienced block cracking/coolant intrusion, misfires, and white smoke; Ford issued TSBs and faced litigation.

• Approx. 2017–2019 Escape, Fusion, Edge with 2.0L EcoBoost; 2016–2018 Focus RS 2.3L (separate head-gasket/block concerns; many fixed under warranty)

Look for pressure tests, updated parts, and evidence of long-term resolution rather than repeated cooling-system top-offs.

Chevrolet Equinox/GMC Terrain 2.4L oil consumption

Direct-injected 2.4L engines were prone to oil consumption and timing issues, particularly in early years.

• 2010–2013 Equinox/Terrain 2.4L (some issues reported beyond these years as well)

Only proceed with proof of piston/ring service and clean PCV/timing components, plus compression results.

Tesla early-build and infotainment issues

Early Teslas combined rapid iteration with scaling challenges. Infotainment and build-quality concerns were concentrated in specific windows.

• 2012–2014 Model S: MCU1 eMMC memory wear leading to black screens (recall/extended coverage addressed many)
• Early 2018 Model 3: panel gaps/trim/wind noise more common in initial ramp-up builds
• 2020–2021 Model 3/Y: early heat-pump performance hiccups in extreme cold (largely improved via updates)

MCU replacements and later build dates generally mitigate issues; still, inspect fit/finish carefully and confirm warranty/recall status.

General rules of thumb by age and technology

Beyond specific makes/years, certain patterns reliably increase risk in the used market. Use these heuristics when a model falls outside the lists above.

• Be wary of the first model year after a full redesign or the first year of an all-new engine/transmission.
• Early calibrations of multi-speed automatics (8-, 9-, 10-speed) can be clunky; seek proof of TSB updates or later build dates.
• First generations of new tech (brand-new infotainment suites, driver-assistance stacks, novel hybrids/PHEVs) often improve after year one.
• Turbo direct-injection engines from the early 2010s may face carbon buildup and PCV issues; mid-cycle revisions help.
• Pandemic-era production variability (2020–2021) created some quality swings; judge cars individually and emphasize service records and build date.

These guidelines don’t replace research on a specific VIN, but they help you spot red flags before you invest time in a viewing or inspection.

How to vet a specific used car before you commit

Model-year risk can be offset by exceptional maintenance or factory fixes. This checklist helps you separate a good example from a problem child.

• Run the VIN at NHTSA’s recall site and the manufacturer’s owner portal for outstanding recalls and warranty extensions.
• Search TSBs for the exact year/engine/transmission; confirm updates were performed with receipts.
• Get a pre-purchase inspection from a brand specialist; request a cold start, long test drive, and a scan for stored/pending codes.
• Examine transmission behavior at low speeds and light throttle; check for shudder, flare, or harsh downshifts.
• Review oil consumption, coolant levels, and any top-off logs; consider a compression/leak-down test on suspect engines.
• Verify maintenance intervals (fluid services on “lifetime” units, timing service where applicable) and look for consistent, dated records.

Spending a few hundred dollars on expert verification can save thousands in avoidable repairs and dramatically narrows your risk.

Examples of generally safer “sweet spot” years

No car is bulletproof, but some model-year ranges routinely score well for reliability and owner satisfaction, especially when maintained.

• Toyota Corolla 2015–2019; Toyota Prius 2016–2019; Lexus RX 2016–2019
• Mazda3 2015–2019; Mazda CX‑5 2016–2019 (avoid first year if sensitive to infotainment quirks)
• Honda Accord 2016–2017 (post-refresh 9th gen); Honda Fit 2015–2019
• Subaru Outback 2016–2018 with documented maintenance (watch for oil use on earlier FB engines)

Treat these as starting points, not guarantees: always verify the specific vehicle’s service history, software updates, and condition.

Key sources and how to keep current

Because reliability data shifts with recalls, software updates, and evolving parts, consult multiple sources at decision time.

• NHTSA complaints/recalls and manufacturer owner portals for VIN-specific actions
• Consumer Reports reliability charts and road tests; J.D. Power Vehicle Dependability Studies
• Owner forums and brand-specific technicians’ advisories for real-world failure patterns and TSBs

Cross-referencing these resources provides a more complete picture than any single list and captures late-breaking updates.

Summary

Avoiding problematic car years is less about memorizing every bad model and more about recognizing patterns: be cautious with first-year redesigns and known-problem clusters like 2007–2014 Nissan CVTs, 2011–2016 Ford PowerShift, 2011–2019 Hyundai/Kia Theta II engines, 2014–2019 GM 8-speed automatics, 2006–2009 Honda Civic, 2007–2011 Toyota 2.4L oil consumption, 2011–2015 Subaru oil consumption, 2008–2014 VW/Audi 2.0T timing chains, 2017–2019 Ford 2.0/2.3 EcoBoost, certain ZF 9‑speed applications, and early Tesla infotainment/build issues. Use recalls/TSBs, expert inspections, and meticulous service-history checks to validate any specific car. With the right diligence, even higher-risk years can be safe buys—and low-risk years can be avoided if a particular car’s history doesn’t add up.

What years to avoid for cars?

There are no universal “car years to avoid,” as reliability varies significantly by make, model, and specific issues. However, some years are known for specific problems, such as Ford Fiesta models from 2011-2014 due to transmission issues, or GMC Acadia models from 2017. Generally, older vehicles (over 10 years) may lack modern safety features, and very early model years can also have unique problems. 
Specific Models Known for Problems

• Ford Fiesta (2011-2014): Opens in new tabThese models are known for problems with their dual-clutch automatic transmission, according to Arizona Car Sales. 
• 2017 GMC Acadia: Opens in new tabA specific report mentions issues with the 2017 model year for the GMC Acadia, notes Arizona Car Sales. 
• Dodge Journey (2009, 2012, 2015, 2019): Opens in new tabThese years were reported to have low reliability ratings, according to Autolist. 

Consider these factors when avoiding a year:

• Model-Specific Issues: Check for known problems for the specific model and year you are considering. 
• Safety Technology: Cars older than 10 years may lack modern safety features like adaptive cruise control or advanced airbag systems, according to Auto Kings. 
• Reliability History: Research reports from sources like Autolist and Arizona Car Sales for low-reliability model years. 
• Wear and Tear: A vehicle’s problems can become more apparent as it accumulates mileage, notes Autolist. 

What’s the best year for a used car?

The “best year” to buy a used car depends on whether you prioritize maximizing savings or having a newer vehicle, with a 3 to 5-year-old car often being the “sweet spot” as it has already experienced its largest depreciation while still offering modern features and reliability. The best time to buy is often at the end of the calendar year or model year, when dealers are motivated to clear inventory and offer holiday sales. 
Consider the Car’s Age: 

• 3 to 5 years old: This range is often considered the ideal “sweet spot”. The vehicle has taken a significant depreciation hit, meaning you pay much less than a new car, but it still offers relatively new technology and is likely to be reliable with just basic maintenance.

Consider the Time of Year:

• End of the Calendar Year: Opens in new tabThe fourth quarter (October to December) is a great time to buy because dealers need to make room for new inventory and offer holiday sales to meet end-of-year goals, according to Baron BMW. 
• End of the Model Year: Opens in new tabKeep an eye out for when a dealership is about to receive the new model year of a particular car. The incentive to get the older model off the lot can result in a better deal. 
• February: Opens in new tabThis month can also offer more deals, potentially due to reduced shopping traffic around Valentine’s Day and the need to move older inventory. 

Other Factors to Consider:

• Model Reliability: Research the specific makes and models you are interested in, focusing on models known for their reliability, such as older Toyota Corollas or Honda Accords, which are often recommended, according to Top Speed. 
• Market Conditions: Stay aware of interest rates and overall vehicle inventory levels, as these factors can impact pricing. 
• Professional Services: Consider using a professional car buying service. These services utilize real-time market data and negotiation expertise to secure favorable deals year-round. 

What car has the worst reputation of all time?

AMC Pacer (1975–80)
Including it in Time magazine’s “50 Worst Cars of All Time”, Dan Neil described the Pacer as a “glassine bolus of dorkiness” and that “in the summer, it was like being an ant under a mean kid’s magnifying glass.

What year of cars are most reliable?

While specific year models can vary, the most reliable car years often come from brands like Toyota, Lexus, and Honda, with many models from the late 2000s and 2010s (such as the Toyota Corolla, Honda Civic, and Lexus ES) consistently receiving high marks for durability and low fault rates. For example, the 2009-2019 generation of the Toyota Corolla is noted for its exceptional balance of features and proven reliability. 
Reliable Brands and Models

• Toyota/Lexus: Opens in new tabKnown for their long-term reliability, models like the Toyota Corolla, Honda Civic, Lexus ES, and Toyota 4Runner frequently appear on lists of dependable vehicles. 
• Honda: Opens in new tabThe Honda Civic and Honda Accord are also consistently praised for their reliability. 
• Mazda: Opens in new tabThe Mazda MX-5 Miata is a great example of a reliable sports car, and the Mazda 3 and Mazda 6 are also considered dependable. 
• Other Brands: Opens in new tabOther brands like Buick, Chevrolet, and Kia also produce reliable vehicles that may be worth considering, according to some reports. 

Considerations for Reliability

• Maintenance is Key: Even the most reliable car can fall short if not properly maintained. Regularly changing fluids and performing routine maintenance is crucial. 
• Mileage vs. Age: A well-maintained car with higher mileage can still be a better purchase than a newer, poorly maintained vehicle. 
• Pre-Owned Vehicle Checks: When buying a used car, consider getting a vehicle history report and having a trusted mechanic inspect it to ensure it hasn’t been in accidents or had poor maintenance.