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What Cars You Should Not Tow With a Tow Dolly

You should not tow the following with a tow dolly: most all-wheel-drive (AWD) and 4×4 vehicles, rear-wheel-drive (RWD) vehicles with automatic transmissions, electric vehicles (EVs), most hybrids, vehicles that exceed the dolly’s weight or width limits, and low-clearance or long-overhang cars that risk damage. A tow dolly lifts only the front wheels and leaves the rear wheels rolling, which can severely damage many drivetrains and doesn’t suit all vehicle sizes or designs. Below is a detailed breakdown of what to avoid and why—plus safe alternatives.

How a Tow Dolly Works—and Why It Matters

A tow dolly raises the front axle and lets the rear wheels roll on the road. That configuration is generally fine for many front-wheel-drive (FWD) cars because their drive wheels—the front—are off the ground. For other drivetrains, spinning the undriven end can starve transmissions, transfer cases, and e-axles of lubrication or force motors and gears to rotate without proper control, causing damage. Manufacturers’ guidance takes precedence; if the owner’s manual forbids wheels-down towing, a dolly is off the table.

Vehicles You Generally Should Not Tow With a Tow Dolly

The following categories are widely considered incompatible with tow-dolly towing because of drivetrain design, lubrication needs, electrical systems, or physical limitations.

  • AWD and full-time 4×4 vehicles (e.g., Subaru AWD, Audi Quattro, BMW xDrive, Mercedes 4Matic): Any wheels on the ground can force internal components to rotate and overheat or bind. Most manufacturers prohibit dolly or flat towing unless the driveline is mechanically disconnected.
  • RWD vehicles with automatic transmissions (cars, SUVs, trucks): With the rear wheels on the ground, the transmission output shaft spins without the input-driven oil pump running, risking rapid damage. Modern automatics typically lack rear pumps that once made limited towing possible.
  • Electric vehicles (EVs) of nearly all makes (e.g., Tesla, Nissan Leaf, Chevy Bolt, Hyundai Ioniq 5/Kia EV6): Spinning drive wheels can back-drive the motor and reduction gear, causing overheating or electrical and mechanical damage. Most EVs must be flatbed towed only.
  • Most hybrids and plug-in hybrids (e.g., Toyota/Lexus hybrids, Honda hybrids, many eAWD hybrids): Their eCVT/planetary systems and motor-generators can be damaged if any driven wheels roll. Owner’s manuals overwhelmingly require flatbed towing.
  • Part-time 4×4 vehicles unless the manufacturer explicitly permits wheels-down towing with transfer case in Neutral (N): Even when selectable, many makers still prohibit tow-dolly use; check the manual. If flat towing is allowed, a dolly is seldom necessary or recommended.
  • Vehicles exceeding the dolly’s capacity or dimensions: Too heavy, too wide a track, oversized tires, or unusual wheelbases can exceed the dolly rating or prevent safe securement.
  • Ultra–low-clearance cars or vehicles with long front overhangs/splitters: Loading angles and tie-down geometry can scrape or damage underbody aero, bumpers, and spoilers.
  • Vehicles whose owners’ manuals forbid any wheels-down towing: Some FWD CVT models, performance cars, and specialty drivetrains specify flatbed only, regardless of configuration.

In short, if spinning the rear wheels risks starving a transmission or forcing an e-axle to rotate, or if the vehicle simply doesn’t fit safely, a tow dolly is the wrong tool. When in doubt, follow the owner’s manual and err on the side of a flatbed.

Why These Drivetrains Are at Risk

Several mechanical and electrical realities make dolly towing unsafe for many modern vehicles. The points below summarize the core reasons.

  • Lubrication dependency: Most automatics rely on an engine-driven pump; with the engine off, the output shaft can spin without oil circulation.
  • AWD coupling and clutches: Center differentials, transfer cases, or clutch packs can overheat or bind if any axle is forced to rotate independently.
  • Electric motors and e-axles: Back-driving motors can generate uncontrolled current/heat and rotate gearsets designed for powered, not passive, motion.
  • Hybrid eCVTs: Planetary gearsets and motor-generators are not designed to be spun by the wheels; damage can occur quickly.
  • Fitment and geometry: Low noses, long overhangs, and ground-effects aero can’t clear dolly ramps/straps; heavy or wide vehicles exceed dolly limits.

These aren’t theoretical risks—tow operators see real failures from improper dolly use, which is why most roadside services flatbed AWDs, EVs, and hybrids by default.

Edge Cases and Limited Exceptions

There are a few scenarios where a tow dolly might be permissible, but they require strict adherence to manufacturer instructions and often specialized hardware.

  • Manual-transmission RWD vehicles: Some older/manual models can be towed short distances with rear wheels down; this is not universal and is rarely recommended for long hauls.
  • Selectable 4×4 with transfer-case Neutral (true mechanical N): A handful of vehicles (often certain Jeeps and trucks) permit wheels-down towing when the transfer case is in N. Even then, makers may not approve dolly use; they usually specify flat towing or flatbed.
  • Driveshaft disconnects or temporary removal: Mechanically disconnecting the rear driveshaft can make dolly towing feasible on some RWD/4x4s. This should be done by a qualified technician and must align with the manufacturer’s guidance.
  • Specific FWD models: Many FWD vehicles are suitable for dolly towing when the front wheels are lifted—provided the manual explicitly allows it and the car fits the dolly.

Treat these as exceptions, not rules. The only reliable green light is explicit approval in your owner’s manual, supplemented by the dolly manufacturer’s capacity and fit guidelines.

Non-Drivetrain Limits That Also Rule Out Dolly Towing

Even if the drivetrain were hypothetically compatible, these practical constraints can still make dolly towing a no-go.

  • Exceeding weight rating: If the towed vehicle’s curb weight plus cargo exceeds the dolly’s GVWR or axle rating, it’s unsafe and illegal.
  • Track width and tire size: Oversized or wide-stance vehicles may not seat properly on dolly platforms or accept standard tie-down straps.
  • Braking and legal requirements: Some jurisdictions require auxiliary brakes for towed loads beyond a threshold. Dollies with integrated brakes may still be insufficient for heavy vehicles.
  • Damaged or misaligned suspensions/steering: Vehicles with front-end damage or steering issues may not track straight on a dolly.

If you cannot secure, strap, and brake the combination within the law and the dolly’s specs, choose a different towing method.

Real-World Examples Commonly Not Suited to Tow Dollies

The following widely sold models (or categories) are typically flatbed-only or otherwise incompatible with dolly towing unless the manufacturer explicitly states otherwise.

  • EVs: Tesla Model 3/Model Y/Model S/Model X; Nissan Leaf; Chevrolet Bolt EUV/Bolt; Ford Mustang Mach-E; Hyundai Ioniq 5/Kia EV6; Volkswagen ID.4.
  • AWD cars and crossovers: Subaru Outback/Forester/Crosstrek (AWD variants); Audi A4/A6/Allroad Quattro; BMW xDrive models; Mercedes 4Matic models; many AWD Toyotas, Hondas, Hyundais, Kias, and Mazdas.
  • Hybrids (FWD or AWD): Toyota Prius family, RAV4 Hybrid/Prime, Highlander Hybrid; Honda CR‑V Hybrid/Accord Hybrid; most Lexus hybrids; many plug-in hybrids from multiple brands.
  • RWD automatics: Many modern RWD sedans, coupes, SUVs, and pickups (e.g., Ford Mustang automatic, Dodge Charger/Challenger automatic, full-size trucks/SUVs) unless the maker provides a specific towing procedure—which is uncommon.

Always verify your exact year/trim in the owner’s manual. Drivetrain options change within the same nameplate, and towing guidance can differ year to year.

What to Use Instead

If your vehicle falls into a “do not dolly” category, these alternatives protect your drivetrain and keep you compliant.

  • Flatbed tow truck: The universal, manufacturer-approved method for AWDs, EVs, and hybrids.
  • Full car trailer (all wheels off the road): Best for long distances, heavy vehicles, and complex drivetrains.
  • Professional driveline disconnect or driveshaft removal: A niche solution for certain RWD/4×4 vehicles when trailering isn’t possible.

Choosing the right method prevents costly damage and may preserve warranty coverage where applicable.

Summary

Do not tow AWD/4×4 vehicles, RWD automatics, EVs, or most hybrids with a tow dolly, and avoid any vehicle that exceeds dolly ratings or lacks sufficient clearance. The rule of thumb: if any driven wheels would be on the ground—or if the manual says “flatbed only”—don’t use a dolly. When in doubt, default to a flatbed or full trailer and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter.

What are the limitations of tow dollies?

Most tow dollies have a weight limit between 4,000 and 5,000 pounds. Make sure to check the weight of your vehicle in conjunction with the weight capacity of your tow dolly.

What happens if you tow an AWD car with a tow dolly?

Another option for towing an AWD vehicle is special heavy-duty dollies that are fitted to the wheels of your car. This allows your vehicle to be towed, but the wheels won’t be spinning and potentially causing any damage.

Why is a tow dolly not recommended?

Tow dollies are not recommended due to their poor maneuverability, especially when backing up, the high risk of damage to all-wheel-drive (AWD) or four-wheel-drive (4WD) vehicles, significant wear and tear on the towed vehicle’s tires, and potential instability and swaying at higher speeds, which can cause accidents or rollovers. Additionally, dolly towing is more time-consuming and challenging to set up and break down compared to other towing methods.
 
Risks and Disadvantages

  • AWD/4WD Vehicle Damage: Dollies only lift the front wheels, leaving the rear wheels on the ground. For AWD or 4WD vehicles, this can cause serious and costly damage to the drivetrain, as the vehicle is not designed to have its rear wheels rolling. 
  • Instability and Accidents: The weight of the towed car can cause the dolly and the towed vehicle to sway, especially at higher speeds or when improperly loaded. This instability increases the risk of losing control, jackknifing, or even flipping the entire setup. 
  • Maneuverability Issues: Maneuvering a tow dolly, particularly reversing, is challenging for most drivers. The towed vehicle’s tendency to go in an unexpected direction can make it very difficult to position correctly. 
  • Tire Wear and Vehicle Damage: Uneven tire wear on the towed vehicle’s front tires is a common issue. The physical act of getting the car on and off the dolly can also cause additional wear and tear on the towed vehicle itself. 
  • Setup and Breakdown Time: Loading and securing a vehicle onto a dolly takes more time and effort than other towing methods, such as flat towing. 

Considerations Before Using a Tow Dolly

  • Vehicle Type: Opens in new tabA tow dolly is best suited for two-wheel-drive, front-wheel-drive vehicles. 
  • Speed and Distance: Opens in new tabFor long-distance travel or high-speed driving, a dolly’s instability becomes a significant risk. 
  • Driver Experience: Opens in new tabThe difficulty of maneuvering and backing up a tow dolly is a substantial challenge for less experienced drivers. 

Does the car need to be in neutral when towing on a dolly?

No, your car does not always need to be in neutral when towing on a dolly; the correct transmission position depends on the vehicle’s drivetrain and transmission type, and for rear-wheel and all-wheel drive vehicles, simply being in neutral is insufficient to prevent damage, requiring driveshaft disconnection or lifting the rear wheels. For automatic front-wheel drive (FWD) cars, you can leave the vehicle in park or neutral because the front wheels are lifted, while manual FWD vehicles are often towed in first gear. Always consult your vehicle’s owner’s manual for specific towing instructions to avoid costly damage.
 
Front-Wheel Drive (FWD) Vehicles

  • Automatic: Opens in new tabYou can typically leave the vehicle in park or neutral because the drive wheels are off the ground on the dolly. 
  • Manual: Opens in new tabFor added security, it’s recommended to tow in first gear with the front wheels on the dolly. 

Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD) Vehicles

  • Both Automatic and Manual: You must disconnect the driveshaft at the rear axle to prevent transmission damage from the lack of internal lubrication, especially for automatics. 
  • Alternative: You can tow the vehicle backward, placing the front wheels on the dolly and lifting the rear (drive) wheels off the ground. 

All-Wheel Drive (AWD) Vehicles

  • AWD vehicles should not be towed on a standard tow dolly. 
  • If towing becomes necessary in specific circumstances, you must disconnect the driveshaft to prevent drivetrain damage. 

Important Considerations for All Vehicles

  • Check the Owner’s Manual: Always refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual for specific towing instructions, as these guidelines can vary significantly by model. 
  • Steering Wheel: Unlock the steering wheel to allow it to turn freely during transport by starting the car, turning the key to the “on” position (without starting the engine), and then turning the key off. 
  • Parking Brake: Ensure the emergency brake is disengaged before towing. 

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