Best Websites to Buy Salvage Cars in 2025

The best overall website for buying salvage cars is Copart, thanks to its massive nationwide inventory and robust auction tools; IAA (Insurance Auto Auctions) is a close alternative with comparable selection. If you don’t have a dealer license, reputable brokers like AutoBidMaster and Salvagebid provide public access to Copart and IAA inventories. The right choice ultimately depends on your location, licensing status, budget, and how comfortable you are with auctions, fees, and the rebuild process.

What “best” really means in the salvage market

“Best” hinges on factors that vary buyer to buyer: public access versus dealer-only, inventory size and variety (insurance total-loss, repossessions, flood vehicles, theft recoveries), transparent fees, local yard proximity, shipping options, and support for inspections and documentation. Copart and IAA dominate on selection and logistics, while brokers and aggregators make access easier for the public and international buyers. Some platforms also emphasize fixed-price listings or simplified checkout, which may suit one-off buyers.

The top salvage-car websites right now

The following list highlights leading platforms by inventory depth, accessibility, and buyer support. It balances auction powerhouses with public-access brokers and aggregators to cover different use cases.

• Copart (copart.com) — The largest U.S. salvage auction network with extensive yard coverage, 360° images, condition reports, and strong logistics. Many lots require a license; public buyers can use approved brokers. Fees are tiered and can add up, but selection is unmatched.
• IAA, a RB Global company (iaai.com) — Direct competitor to Copart with comparable insurance-sourced inventory, detailed condition reports, and broad yard coverage. Licensing rules vary by state; public buyers often need a broker. Sometimes yields better deals regionally.
• AutoBidMaster (autobidmaster.com) — A well-known broker providing public access to Copart inventory. Offers simplified registration, bidding, and payment, plus shipping coordination. Adds broker fees but removes licensing barriers for one-off buyers.
• Salvagebid (salvagebid.com) — Another established broker for Copart/IAA with tiered memberships, bid assistance, and international shipping help. Useful for public buyers; total cost = auction fees + broker fees.
• eRepairables (erepairables.com) — Aggregates salvage and repairable listings (often from Copart/IAA and regional sources). Helpful for browsing across platforms and sometimes includes fixed-price options. Purchase flows may still route through auctions or sellers.
• Auto Auction Mall (autoauctionmall.com) — Broker/concierge that grants access to dealer-only auctions (including salvage), with hands-on support and international export services. Fees and margins tend to be higher in exchange for convenience.
• CrankyApe (crankyape.com) — Auction site with a mix of powersports, RVs, and some autos, including salvage and repos. Public access with membership. Smaller selection for cars but occasional value finds.
• eBay Motors (ebay.com/motors) — Not a salvage auction per se, but frequently lists salvage/branded-title vehicles from dealers and private sellers. Useful for comparison shopping and fixed-price buys; diligence is critical due to variable listing quality.

In practice, Copart and IAA anchor the market for selection and logistics, while brokers like AutoBidMaster and Salvagebid make those inventories accessible to the public. Aggregators such as eRepairables and marketplaces like eBay broaden the search when you favor convenience or fixed-price options over pure auctions.

Recommendations by buyer type and situation

Public buyer without a dealer license

If you lack a dealer/rebuilder license, these options balance access, simplicity, and cost control.

• Use AutoBidMaster or Salvagebid to access Copart/IAA inventory without a license; both offer customer support and shipping assistance.
• Browse eRepairables for aggregated listings and occasional fixed-price deals to reduce auction pressure.
• Consider eBay Motors for transparent pricing from sellers with photos and vehicle histories, then verify independently.

Brokers add fees, but they simplify registration, compliance, and logistics—often worth it for first-time or one-off buyers.

Licensed dealers and rebuilders

With the right credentials, you can go straight to the largest sources for volume and control.

• Bid directly on Copart and IAA to minimize middlemen and unlock full inventory, including license-restricted lots.
• Set up transport accounts and establish relationships with specific yards for priority loading and reduced cycle times.

Direct accounts reduce broker costs and give you faster cycles, better yard access, and more consistent inventory flow.

Budget or one-off buyer seeking a simpler checkout

When convenience and predictability matter more than absolute lowest price, consider these options.

• eRepairables and eBay Motors for fixed-price or straightforward listings.
• Brokers with concierge services (Auto Auction Mall) for guided purchase and export, accepting higher fees for handholding.

These approaches may cost a bit more but reduce the learning curve and auction volatility that can surprise new buyers.

International buyers and exporters

Exporters prioritize platforms that streamline paperwork, payments, and shipping.

• Copart and IAA combined with broker services (Salvagebid, AutoBidMaster) for logistics, document handling, and port delivery.
• Concierge-style brokers (Auto Auction Mall) when you need end-to-end support, including customs and compliance.

The export workflow is smoother with brokers who routinely handle titles, notarization, and port bookings—factor in their fees early.

How to buy a salvage car safely

The steps below help you evaluate risk, control costs, and avoid common pitfalls when purchasing a salvage vehicle.

1. Define your target: year, model, drivetrain, and acceptable damage types (e.g., front-end vs. flood). Know parts availability and typical rebuild costs.
2. Run the VIN through NMVTIS and NICB, and consider Carfax/AutoCheck to verify title brand, prior total-loss records, and odometer status.
3. Use platform photos and condition reports critically; when possible, hire a third-party inspector for high-value targets.
4. Estimate repair costs using parts databases, salvage yards, and labor guides; add a contingency (often 20–30%) for hidden damage.
5. Set a hard bid ceiling by working backward from the post-repair market value minus repair costs, fees, and profit (if reselling).
6. Understand all fees (auction, buyer, gate, internet, documentation, broker, and storage) and include transport quotes before bidding.
7. Check title transfer and rebuild rules in your state (inspections, emissions, VIN verifications). Some states make flood or non-repairable vehicles ineligible for road use.
8. Plan transport early; arrange a carrier who can load non-running vehicles from an auction yard with the right equipment.
9. After purchase, store the vehicle promptly to avoid daily storage fees and document any discrepancies upon pickup.
10. Document repairs thoroughly (photos, receipts) for rebuilt-title inspections and potential insurance underwriting.

Disciplined prep and cost modeling are the difference between a bargain rebuild and an expensive learning experience.

Typical fees to expect

Fees vary by platform, sale price, location, and membership tier; expect a combination of percentage-based and flat charges.

• Auction buyer fee: Tiered by sale price; can be a few hundred dollars on mid-priced lots.
• Internet bid fee: A flat fee for online wins.
• Gate/load fee: Yard handling fee per vehicle.
• Documentation/title fee: Processing and paperwork costs.
• Broker fee (if applicable): Added by public-access brokers for bidding and compliance.
• Storage: Daily charges after a short grace period (often 3–5 business days).
• Transportation: Varies by distance, vehicle condition, and equipment needed (winch, forklift assist).

Add these to your repair estimate and bid ceiling; many first-time buyers underestimate total fees by 10–20%.

Legal and insurance considerations

Title rules and insurance vary widely; knowing your state’s specifics prevents registration surprises.

• Title brands: Salvage, rebuilt, flood, non-repairable/junk each carry different road-use implications.
• State variance: Some states prohibit retitling flood or non-repairable vehicles; others require intensive inspections.
• Rebuilt inspections: Documentation of parts and repairs is often mandatory; keep receipts and photos.
• Insurance limits: Many carriers restrict comprehensive/collision on rebuilt titles; shop around in advance.
• Emissions/safety: Confirm your vehicle will meet local emissions and safety requirements post-repair.

Call your DMV and potential insurers before you bid to confirm the path to registration and coverage for your specific vehicle and title brand.

Red flags and best practices

Watch for these risk indicators to avoid costly surprises and maximize the chance of a successful rebuild.

• Flood indicators: Silt under carpets, waterlines in photos, rust on seat tracks/bolts, musty interiors; many floods hide severe electrical damage.
• Frame/structural damage: Look for wheel misalignment, kinked rails, buckled strut towers; structural repairs require expertise and proper equipment.
• Airbag deployment: Replacing airbags, modules, and sensors adds significant cost; verify availability and pricing.
• “Runs & Drives” caveats: This only means it moved at the yard; it doesn’t guarantee roadworthiness.
• “Enhanced” vehicles: Yard-started or partially repaired units may mask issues; treat with extra scrutiny.
• Missing keys: Modern immobilizers can make key programming costly; factor it in.
• Odometer issues: “Not actual” or “exceeds mechanical limits” titles depress resale and complicate financing.

When in doubt, skip marginal cars—there will always be another auction. Patience and strict criteria are your best safeguards.

The bottom line

For most buyers, Copart is the best website to buy salvage cars due to sheer selection and infrastructure, with IAA as a close rival. If you don’t have a dealer license, use established brokers like AutoBidMaster or Salvagebid to access these inventories, or consider eRepairables and eBay Motors for simpler, fixed-price paths. Regardless of platform, success hinges on rigorous VIN checks, realistic repair budgets, a clear understanding of fees and title laws, and a disciplined bidding strategy.

Summary

Copart leads the salvage market, with IAA a strong alternative; public buyers should consider brokers like AutoBidMaster or Salvagebid for access, while eRepairables and eBay Motors offer simpler options. Choose based on your licensing status, location, and comfort with auctions. Protect your investment by verifying title history, budgeting all fees and repairs, planning transport, and confirming state rebuild and insurance rules before you bid.

Can you actually buy repossessed cars?

Bank and repo auctions feature vehicles seized by financial institutions due to loan defaults. These auctions aim to recover the remaining loan balance, allowing buyers to bid on vehicles at below-market prices.

What are the best salvage cars to buy?

Top 5 Most Profitable Models

• Model 1: Honda Accord. The Honda Accord is often revered for its reliability and resale value.
• Model 2: Toyota Camry. The Toyota Camry is another excellent choice for salvage car importing.
• Model 3: Ford F-150.
• Model 4: BMW 3 Series.
• Model 5: Chevrolet Silverado.

Who is Copart’s biggest competitor?

Copart’s competitors and similar companies include ACV Auctions, Manheim, OPENLANE, CarMax and AutoNation. Copart is a company that specializes in the resale and remarketing of used, wholesale, and salvage title vehicles.

Is it ever a good idea to buy a salvage title car?

These cars have previously been declared a total loss and are often priced at just a fraction of the cost of comparable models with clean titles. Buying a car with a salvage title could save you money, but it’s a risky endeavor and may not be a good option for most drivers.