The Easiest Way to Lift a Car—Safely and Without Hassle

The easiest way to lift a car is to use a hydraulic floor jack at the manufacturer-approved jacking point on level, solid ground, then immediately support the vehicle with jack stands; for quick underside access without removing wheels, drive-on ramps are simpler, while the trunk scissor jack is a slower, roadside-only fallback. Choosing the best method depends on where you are (garage vs. roadside), what you need to do, and the type of vehicle you’re lifting.

How “easiest” varies by situation

In a home garage, a low-profile hydraulic floor jack paired with jack stands offers the best balance of speed, stability, and ease. For quick oil changes or front-end work, ramps are the least fiddly. On the side of the road, the included scissor jack gets the job done when portability matters most. Electric 12V scissor or bottle jacks add convenience but still require correct placement and wheel chocks.

Go-to for most home garages: hydraulic floor jack + jack stands

This method is widely considered the most efficient and controllable way to lift one corner, one end, or even the whole vehicle (in stages). Below are the step-by-step basics that emphasize safety and proper technique.

1. Park on flat, paved ground; engage the parking brake and put the transmission in Park (or in first gear for manuals).
2. Chock the wheels that will remain on the ground to prevent rolling.
3. Consult the owner’s manual to locate the correct jacking point (pinch weld, subframe pad, or dedicated lift point). Use a rubber pad or jack puck if required.
4. Position the floor jack under the jacking point; pump the handle to lift slowly until the wheel clears or the height you need is reached.
5. Place jack stands under the designated stand points (often near the jack point or on the subframe). Adjust to equal height.
6. Lower the vehicle gently onto the stands; leave the jack touching as a secondary safeguard without bearing weight.
7. Test stability with a light shake before working under or removing wheels.
8. When finished, raise the car slightly with the jack, remove stands, and lower the vehicle slowly to the ground. Remove chocks last.

Used carefully, this approach is both quick and secure, giving you repeatable control over height and positioning without excessive effort.

What you’ll need

Before lifting, assemble basic equipment that ensures stability and safety while minimizing effort.

• Hydraulic floor jack (low-profile for low cars; 2–3 ton rating suits most vehicles)
• Two or four jack stands (matching or exceeding the car’s weight rating)
• Wheel chocks (rubber or metal; in a pinch, bricks or wood blocks are inferior)
• Rubber jack pad or model-specific puck (e.g., for Tesla pinch points)
• Gloves and a flashlight for visibility and control

These tools are widely available, last for years, and significantly reduce the physical effort and risk compared with improvised setups.

For quick underside access without removing wheels: drive-on ramps

Ramps are the simplest way to raise the front (or rear) for oil changes, filters, or inspections—no jacking or stands required, provided your bumper clearance allows it.

1. Align ramps straight with the wheels of the end you want to raise.
2. Chock the opposite-end wheels and set the parking brake.
3. Drive up slowly until you feel the wheel settle into the ramp cradle; stop immediately.
4. Confirm both wheels are fully seated and the ramps are stable before going underneath.
5. When finished, back down slowly and remove chocks.

Ramps minimize setup and are extremely stable; however, very low cars may need low-angle or modular ramps to avoid bumper or splitter contact.

Roadside solution: scissor jack (or compact electric jack)

When you’re away from a garage, the factory scissor jack is designed for tire changes and portability, not speed. A 12V electric scissor or bottle jack can add convenience but follows the same safety principles.

1. Pull well off the roadway, use hazard lights, and set the parking brake; place the car in Park or first gear.
2. Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the flat tire.
3. Slightly loosen lug nuts before lifting (about a quarter turn).
4. Locate the designated jacking point and position the scissor or electric jack correctly.
5. Raise the vehicle just enough to lift the tire clear; never crawl under a car supported only by a scissor jack.
6. Change the wheel, snug the nuts, lower the car, then torque nuts in a star pattern to spec.

This method prioritizes portability and necessity. Keep your jack, lug wrench, and a compact chock in the trunk for emergencies.

Special vehicles and modern considerations

Some vehicles need extra steps or equipment to avoid damage or instability while lifting.

• EVs: Use only marked lift points; avoid battery pack areas. Many EVs (Tesla, Rivian, some Mercedes, BMW) require enabling Jack Mode to disable self-leveling suspension.
• Air or active suspension: Activate Jack or Service Mode to prevent auto-levelling while lifted.
• Low-clearance cars: Use low-profile jacks or “quick ramps” to create space for the jack saddle.
• Trucks/SUVs: Heavier ratings (3–4 ton jack/stands) and taller lift range may be required.
• Unibody pinch welds: Use slotted pinch-weld pads to avoid bending the seam.
• Frame vehicles: Lift from frame rails or designated crossmembers; avoid thin bodywork.
• Rusty or damaged points: Never lift from corroded pinch welds or thin panels; relocate to a reinforced point per the manual.

These precautions prevent costly damage and keep the vehicle stable throughout the lift.

Common mistakes to avoid

Small oversights can lead to instability, damage, or injury. The pitfalls below are frequently cited by technicians and roadside assistance providers.

• Lifting on soft ground or uneven surfaces that allow jacks or stands to sink or tilt
• Skipping wheel chocks or the parking brake
• Crawling under a vehicle supported only by a jack, without stands
• Using random points (floor pan, battery tray, exhaust) instead of specified jack points
• Forgetting to crack lug nuts before lifting a flat tire
• Overreaching jack height limits or using under-rated equipment

A brief pre-check and proper gear dramatically reduce risk and make the lift faster and smoother.

When to use a professional lift

If you need full, unobstructed access under the chassis, a shop’s two-post or four-post lift is the safest and genuinely the easiest—no setup, no guesswork, and full stability. This is especially advisable for transmission, exhaust, or fuel system work, or when you’re unsure about lift points on a new or unfamiliar vehicle.

Cost and time snapshot

Expect a modest upfront investment for repeatable, safe home lifting, with time savings on every job afterward.

• Hydraulic floor jack: $80–$250 (low-profile usually costs more)
• Jack stands (pair): $40–$120; ramps: $60–$180
• Electric 12V jack: $70–$200
• Typical lift time: 3–8 minutes for one corner; ramps in 1–2 minutes

Quality tools pay for themselves quickly if you do even occasional maintenance.

Bottom line

For most people in a driveway or garage, the easiest, safest way to lift a car is a hydraulic floor jack used at the correct jacking point, immediately backed up by jack stands. For quick front-end access without wheel removal, ramps are simpler. On the roadside, use the car’s scissor jack (or a compact electric jack) strictly for tire changes. Always chock wheels, follow the owner’s manual for lift points, and never rely on a jack alone.

Summary

Use a hydraulic floor jack plus jack stands for the best balance of ease and safety; ramps are the simplest for quick access; and the factory scissor jack is for roadside emergencies only. Confirm lift points in the manual, chock wheels, and stabilize the vehicle before any work. Adjust methods for EVs and vehicles with air suspension by using Jack/Service Mode and model-specific jack pads.

How to easily lift your car?

And insert jack stands if you have them or need. Them. Now let’s go ahead and lower the car back down it’s pretty simple you’re just going to do what you did to raise it.

What can I use instead of a jack?

Alternatives to the name Jack include similar popular and classic boy names like James, Henry, and Luke, as well as more unexpected options like Fitzwilliam (Fitz), Arthur, and Davis. If you’re looking for a nickname, names like Hank, Cal, or Nate can offer a similar feel. For a car jack, alternatives include wheel cribs and car lifts, while for the fast-food restaurant Jack in the Box, competitors include In-N-Out, KFC, and Wendy’s. 
Names (boy names similar to Jack):

• Classic Names: James, Henry, William, Noah, Oliver, Ethan, Jacob, and Owen. 
• Trendy & Unexpected: Luke, Nate, Fitzwilliam (Fitz), Arthur, Davis, and Paul. 
• One-Syllable Options: Kit, Mac, Zach, Cole, Max, Clark, and Dean. 

Alternatives to a Car Jack:

• Wheel Cribs: A lower-cost alternative that can sometimes be a DIY project. 
• Car Lifts: A more expensive, but often more convenient, method of safely working under a vehicle. 

Competitors to Jack in the Box: 

• Fast Food Chains: In-N-Out Burger, Wendy’s, KFC, Freddy’s Frozen Custard, and Burger King.

Can an average human lift a car?

Probably not. Most reported hysterical strength examples describe a person lifting a portion of a vehicle several inches off the ground, and not an entire automobile.

How do you raise a car cheaply?

The cheapest way to lift a car to work under it is to use wooden blocks for the car to drive up, followed by a floor jack and jack stands for safe support, costing around $60-$80 for the essential safety equipment. For a more permanent vehicle height increase, a budget-friendly option is a body lift kit (around $100-$600) for trucks or using aftermarket torsion keys (around $150) on some truck models to get a modest lift of 1-1.5 inches.
 
For Working Under the Car (Temporary Lift)
This is the most cost-effective and safe method if you need temporary access to work on your car. 

1. Drive onto ramps or blocks: Opens in new tabDrive the front wheels onto a set of inexpensive ramps or a series of wooden blocks (made from 2x8s or similar) for a basic lift, providing some initial clearance. 
2. Use a floor jack: Opens in new tabUse the floor jack to lift the car further, reaching the desired height for working under it. 
3. Place jack stands: Opens in new tabCrucially, place jack stands under the chassis or frame rails to securely support the vehicle. Never rely on the jack alone. 

For a Permanent Height Increase (More Involved)
These options provide a longer-term lift but are more complex and costly. 

• Body Lift Kits (Trucks): Opens in new tabFor trucks, the cheapest way to get a substantial lift is often a body lift kit (starting around $100). These kits use blocks to raise the body off the frame, providing significant height. 
• Torsion Keys (Trucks): Opens in new tabOn trucks with torsion bars, a more modest lift can be achieved by installing aftermarket torsion keys (around $150). This allows for a small height increase (1-1.5 inches) but can result in a rougher ride. 

Other Methods

• Air Jack: Opens in new tabA simple deflated bag is placed under a tire and then inflated with air to lift the car. 
• DIY Spring Inserts (Sketchy): Opens in new tabA method involving welding pieces of angle iron between the coils of a spring to make it stiffer and provide more height for an extra 2 inches of clearance. This method is considered less safe and is for specific applications.