What kind of wrench do I need for an oil change?

For most cars, use a 6-point socket wrench on the drain plug (commonly 13–19 mm or 5/8–3/4 in) and an oil-filter wrench matched to your filter (often a cap-style socket; alternatives include strap/band or pliers). Finish the job with a torque wrench to tighten the drain plug to the manufacturer’s spec and avoid stripping threads. Below is a practical guide to choosing the right tool for your vehicle.

The essentials at a glance

These are the core tools professionals and experienced DIYers rely on for a clean, damage-free oil change. The goal: a snug, properly torqued drain plug and a safely removed oil filter without crushing or slipping.

• Ratchet and 6-point socket set (3/8-inch drive) covering common sizes: 13, 14, 15, 17, 19 mm and 5/8, 3/4 in.
• Torque wrench (3/8-inch drive) capable of roughly 15–80 ft-lb (20–110 Nm) to meet most passenger-car specs.
• Oil filter wrench matched to your filter: cap/socket type for fluted filters or cartridge housings; strap/band or pliers for spin-on filters in tight spaces.
• Box-end wrench as a space-saving alternative if a socket won’t fit (use 6-point whenever possible).

Together, these tools help prevent rounded fasteners, overtightening, and leaks—three of the most common pitfalls in routine oil service.

Typical drain plug sizes and what fits

Drain plugs vary by make and engine family, but most passenger vehicles use hex-head plugs that fit standard socket sizes. Trucks and performance models may use larger plugs, and some European cars use internal hex (Allen) or Torx-style plugs. Always confirm your exact size in the owner’s manual or service guide before loosening.

• Common metric sizes: 13, 14, 15, 17, 19 mm (many Asian and European brands fall in this range).
• Common SAE sizes: 5/8 in and 3/4 in (frequent on American makes and older models).
• Larger or specialty cases: up to 21 mm on some trucks/SUVs; internal hex (6–10 mm) or Torx on select German models.

Choose a 6-point socket over a 12-point to reduce the risk of rounding. If the plug looks shallow or worn, a snug 6-point socket or box-end wrench is your safest bet.

Smart torque and sealing

Typical drain plug torque is about 20–30 ft-lb (27–40 Nm) for many passenger cars, with some trucks/SUVs spec’d higher. Aluminum oil pans can require the lower end of that range. Always replace the crush washer or sealing gasket if your vehicle uses one, and tighten to the manufacturer’s spec to avoid stripped threads or leaks.

Choosing the right oil filter wrench

The correct tool depends on whether you have a spin-on canister or a cartridge-style housing. Cap/socket wrenches that match the flutes on a filter or housing are the cleanest, least damaging option. Strap or band wrenches work well when you can’t access the end of the filter; pliers are a last resort.

• Cap/socket oil filter wrench: Best for filters with fluted ends and for many cartridge housings; allows use with a ratchet or torque wrench.
• Strap/band wrench: Good for tight spaces and varied diameters; provides firm grip on round canisters.
• Oil filter pliers: Useful for stubborn, overtightened filters; use carefully to avoid crushing.
• Manufacturer-specific housings: Some cartridge caps require a large hex socket (commonly 27, 32, or 36 mm) or a dedicated cap (e.g., 64 mm, 14-flute on many Toyota/Lexus housings).

If your vehicle uses a plastic cartridge housing (common on late-model European and some Japanese engines), use the exact-size cap or hex socket and torque it to spec to prevent cracking.

Common cap/socket sizes seen in the field (examples)

While you should verify exact sizing by model and engine, certain cap/socket sizes appear frequently across brands. These examples can help you narrow down the right tool before you buy.

• 64 mm, 14-flute: Common on many Toyota/Lexus cartridge housings and some Toyota spin-on filters.
• 65/67 mm, 14-flute: Often fits many Honda, Nissan, Hyundai/Kia, and aftermarket spin-on filters (e.g., popular 7317/6607-format filters).
• 74–76 mm, 14-flute: Seen on various larger U.S. domestic filters; check your exact filter part number to match.
• Hex sockets for cartridge caps: 27 mm (frequent on Mercedes and others), 32 mm (VW/Audi and some BMW), 36 mm (many BMW inline-6 and V8 housings).

Because filter and housing sizes can change with engine generation or supplier, confirm by filter part number or by measuring the filter/housing before purchasing a cap wrench.

Tools and habits to avoid

Skipping the right tool or technique can turn a simple oil change into a costly repair. These are common mistakes mechanics try to avoid.

• Avoid adjustable wrenches or 12-point sockets on drain plugs—they’re more likely to slip and round edges.
• Don’t overtighten the drain plug or filter; use a torque wrench where possible.
• Don’t reuse crush washers if your vehicle specifies replacement; they’re designed to deform once.
• Don’t pierce filters or use screwdrivers to “stab and twist”—this creates metal debris and can damage mounting surfaces.

Using the correct, well-fitting tool and following torque specs will save threads, housings, and time—every time.

Quick selection guide: picking the right wrench, step by step

If you’re unsure where to start, this simple process will help you select the right wrench for your specific vehicle and avoid mid-job surprises.

1. Identify your drain plug type: hex head, internal hex (Allen), or Torx. Check the owner’s manual or visually inspect.
2. Match the socket: test-fit a 6-point socket that seats fully with no play (typical: 13–19 mm or 5/8–3/4 in).
3. Set your torque wrench to the plug spec (often 20–30 ft-lb for cars; confirm in the manual) and have a new crush washer ready if required.
4. Determine your filter type: spin-on canister or cartridge housing. Choose a cap/socket wrench that matches the filter’s flutes or the housing’s hex, or use a strap/band if access dictates.
5. Reinstall components to spec: torque the drain plug and, if applicable, the cartridge housing; lightly oil spin-on filter gasket and tighten per manufacturer (usually hand-tight plus 3/4 turn).

Pre-fitting the tools before you pull the drain plug ensures you won’t be stuck mid-change with oil draining and the wrong wrench in hand.

Bottom line

For most vehicles, the right setup is a 6-point socket on the drain plug, a torque wrench for final tightening, and an oil filter cap or strap wrench tailored to your filter or housing. Verify your exact sizes in the manual or by test-fit, replace the crush washer if specified, and torque to spec to prevent leaks and damage.

Summary

You’ll typically need a 6-point socket wrench set for the drain plug (13–19 mm or 5/8–3/4 in), an oil filter wrench matched to your filter or housing (cap/socket preferred; strap/band as backup), and a torque wrench to finish. Check your owner’s manual for exact sizes and torque values, use new crush washers where specified, and favor 6-point tools to avoid rounding fasteners.

What to use if I don’t have an oil filter wrench?

Alternatives to an oil filter wrench include using a leather or ratchet strap, rubber gloves for better grip, or a screwdriver or pry bar as a last resort. A strap can be wrapped tightly around the filter to provide leverage, while a screwdriver can be hammered through the filter body to act as a lever, though this can be messy and should be a last resort.
 
Strap-Based Methods

• Leather or Ratchet Strap: Opens in new tabWrap a leather belt or a ratchet strap around the oil filter, making it tight enough to provide sufficient grip and leverage to turn the filter. 
• Rubber Gloves: Opens in new tabFor a less extreme approach, wearing rubber gloves can improve your hand’s grip on a tight oil filter, allowing you to apply more torque by hand. 

Improvised Leverage Tools (Last Resorts)

• Screwdriver: If other methods fail, you can use a long, flathead screwdriver as a lever. 
  1. Hammer the screwdriver: through the side of the filter, being careful to avoid the center shaft where the threads are. 
  2. Use the handle of the screwdriver: as a lever to twist and loosen the filter, allowing you to finish unscrewing it by hand. This method is messy and carries the risk of damaging the filter’s gasket. 
• Pry Bar: A pry bar can be used similarly to a screwdriver by placing it under the lip of the filter and twisting, but this also carries a high risk of damage. 

Other Considerations

• Multi-Tool Strap Wrenches: Opens in new tabTools like multi-tool strap wrenches offer a more controlled and less destructive way to remove the filter without damaging it. 
• Specialized Tools: Opens in new tabA universal oil filter wrench or a band-type wrench is the most reliable option for removing stuck oil filters, though these aren’t always available as improvisations. 
• Filter Types: Opens in new tabSome modern oil filters, like the cartridge style in certain GM vehicles, require a specific-sized socket rather than a traditional filter wrench. 

What kind of jack do I need to change my oil?

hydraulic floor jack
Picking the right jack depends on your needs. A hydraulic floor jack is ideal for those who change their oil often. It provides better stability and lifts the car with less effort. A scissor jack is useful for quick jobs but takes more time to raise a vehicle.

What socket size do I need for an oil change?

You need a socket wrench (14mm or 15mm), an oil filter wrench, an oil drain pan, a funnel, and a new oil filter.

What wrench do I need for an oil change?

First you’ll need a ratchet and socket set to remove the oil drain plug, then an oil filter wrench to remove the filter. When choosing an oil filter wrench, try to find one that will match the specific filter and engages the serrations on the end of the oil filter to make the task easier.