What parts you need to change transmission fluid

You’ll need the correct OEM-specified transmission fluid, a new filter and O-ring or an integrated pan/filter assembly (if applicable), a new pan gasket or RTV, fresh crush washers or seals for drain/fill plugs, and any vehicle-specific seals or sleeves. You’ll also need core tools like a drain pan, fluid pump or funnel, torque wrench, and a way to read transmission fluid temperature. The exact parts vary by transmission type (automatic, CVT, dual‑clutch, manual) and model.

Essential parts for most automatic transmissions

For a routine drain-and-fill or a pan-drop service on a conventional automatic, these are the baseline components that typically must be replaced to ensure a leak-free, properly functioning service.

• Correct fluid to the exact OEM spec (e.g., Dexron VI, Mercon LV/ULV, Toyota WS, Honda DW‑1; CVTs need CVT‑specific fluid; DCT/DSG units need DCT/DSG fluid).
• New transmission filter and O‑ring/seal (where serviceable), or a complete pan-with-integrated-filter assembly on certain units (e.g., ZF 6HP/8HP).
• Pan gasket or OEM‑approved RTV sealant formulated for ATF exposure (use only if specified).
• Drain plug crush washer or sealing washer; replace every service to prevent seepage.
• Fill/level plug O‑ring or sealing washer (often overlooked and a common source of leaks).
• New pan bolts if single‑use/torque‑to‑yield, or if factory specifies replacement; some pans use plastic bolts with fixed torque limits.

Depending on design, some “sealed” transmissions omit a serviceable filter, rely on an internal screen, or require special adapters to fill and set the level—always confirm the procedure for your exact unit.

Tools and supplies you’ll actually use

Beyond parts, having the right tools prevents stripped threads, overfilling, and improper sealing. These items help you achieve the correct level and torque, which are critical for modern transmissions.

• Floor jack and jack stands or ramps rated for vehicle weight; wheel chocks.
• Safety gear: gloves and safety glasses.
• Large drain pan (capacity equal to or greater than expected drain volume).
• Socket set and torque wrench (both ft‑lb and in‑lb ranges for pan bolts).
• Fluid transfer pump or long-neck funnel; bottom‑fill adapters for sealed/bottom‑fill units.
• Brake cleaner or ATF‑safe solvent, lint‑free rags, plastic scraper for gasket surfaces.
• Scan tool or OBD app to monitor transmission fluid temperature; or a calibrated thermometer/IR gun if permitted by the OEM procedure.
• Service manual or OEM repair procedure with torque specs and level‑setting steps.

Using proper tools ensures you achieve the specified torque and fluid temperature window—both are essential to setting the correct fluid level and avoiding leaks or transmission damage.

Vehicle-specific parts and examples

Different transmission families have unique requirements. Always verify by VIN or transmission code and follow the manufacturer’s procedure.

• Conventional automatics (torque‑converter): OEM ATF, replaceable filter and pan gasket on many models; some pans lack a drain plug and require careful pan removal.
• Sealed/bottom‑fill automatics (common on GM, VW/Audi, BMW, Mercedes): require a fill adapter and setting level at a precise fluid temperature via an overflow tube; some need an integrated pan/filter and new pan bolts.
• ZF 6HP/8HP: Typically use a pan with integrated filter, ZF‑spec fluid (e.g., Lifeguard) or approved equivalent, new pan bolts, and optionally a mechatronic sleeve if there’s evidence of seepage.
• Dual‑clutch (DSG/DCT): Use DSG/DCT‑specific fluid; often have an external cartridge filter, new sealing washers, and a temperature‑based level set via overflow.
• CVT: Must use the exact CVT fluid (e.g., NS‑3, HCF‑2, ATF‑CVT types); some have serviceable screens/filters; level is set at temperature via fill/overflow.
• Manual transmissions: Use the specified MTF/gear oil, typically replace crush washers for drain/fill plugs; no pan gasket; often just a drain and refill.

Because part numbers and fluids are highly specific, confirm the exact fluid spec, filter type, gaskets, and any sleeves or seals for your transmission using the VIN and OEM parts catalog.

Optional but smart to replace

These components aren’t always mandatory, but replacing them during service can prevent future leaks or failures and save labor later.

• Cooler line quick‑connect clips and O‑rings if lines are disconnected.
• Dipstick tube O‑ring/seal (if equipped) and breather cap check/clean.
• Transmission mount hardware if removed or corroded.
• Output shaft or axle seals if there is any weeping.
• Pan magnets or a magnetic drain plug to improve debris capture.

While optional, these preventive replacements are relatively inexpensive compared with the labor and risk of revisiting leaks or seepage after the service.

Consumables and quantities

Fluids and specs vary widely; use these as planning ranges and verify the exact numbers for your vehicle.

• Fluid quantity: drain‑and‑fill often 3–6 qt/L; pan drop 5–9 qt/L; full exchange 8–14 qt/L depending on vehicle and cooler volume.
• RTV cure time (if used): typically 1 hour to skin, up to 24 hours for full cure; follow the sealant’s label and OEM instructions.
• Typical torque ranges: pan bolts often 7–12 ft‑lb (10–16 N·m); drain/fill plugs commonly 20–40 ft‑lb (27–54 N·m). Always use the OEM spec.

Confirm capacity, torque, and temperature windows in the factory service information to avoid underfilling, overfilling, or damaging threads and gaskets.

Quick checklist before you start

Run through this checklist to make sure nothing critical is missing and the job will go smoothly and safely.

1. Identify your transmission type and the exact OEM fluid specification.
2. Obtain the correct filter and gasket or the full pan/filter assembly as required.
3. Have new crush washers or O‑rings for both drain and fill/level plugs.
4. Confirm a method to measure transmission fluid temperature.
5. Secure a fluid pump and any special fill adapters for bottom‑fill/overflow systems.
6. Print or save torque specs, sequences, and the OEM level‑setting procedure.
7. Plan for eco‑friendly disposal of used fluid at a recycling center.

If everything on this list is covered, you’re equipped to complete the service without avoidable delays or leaks.

Basic procedure overview (not exhaustive)

These high-level steps show how the parts come together; always follow the exact procedure for your vehicle.

1. Warm the vehicle to operating temperature, raise and secure it level on stands or a lift.
2. Drain the fluid (and drop the pan if applicable); capture volume to estimate refill.
3. Replace the filter and O‑ring or install the new pan/filter assembly; clean pan, magnets, and mating surfaces.
4. Install a new gasket or apply OEM‑approved RTV; torque bolts in sequence to spec.
5. Refill using the correct fluid and a pump/adapter as required.
6. Start the engine, cycle through gears, and monitor fluid temperature.
7. Set the final level at the specified temperature via dipstick or overflow/fill plug; check for leaks and test drive.

Because many modern transmissions require temperature‑based level checks and specific fill procedures, the OEM service guide is the final authority.

Common mistakes to avoid

These errors can lead to shifting issues, leaks, or premature transmission wear—avoid them for a reliable service.

• Using the wrong fluid type (for example, ATF in a CVT or non‑approved substitutes).
• Over‑torquing pan bolts and warping the pan or crushing the gasket.
• Setting the level at the wrong temperature or on an unlevel vehicle.
• Reusing crush washers or O‑rings, leading to slow leaks.
• Allowing dirt or lint into the pan or fill port.
• Skipping TCM adaptation/relearn procedures where specified by the manufacturer.

A careful, spec‑driven approach prevents most post‑service problems and protects your transmission.

Summary

To change transmission fluid correctly, gather the OEM‑specified fluid, a new filter and O‑ring or integrated pan/filter, a fresh pan gasket or approved RTV, new seals/washers for drain and fill plugs, and any model‑specific parts like sleeves or adapters. Equip yourself with a fluid pump, torque wrench, drain pan, cleaning supplies, and a way to monitor fluid temperature. Verify procedures, torques, and quantities for your exact transmission to ensure correct level and leak‑free operation.

What parts do I need for a transmission fluid change?

To change transmission fluid, you need to safely lift and support your vehicle, then remove the transmission pan to drain the old fluid, clean the pan, and replace the transmission filter and gasket. After reinstalling the pan, you’ll add new, correct transmission fluid through the dipstick tube or fill port using a funnel and pump, then start the engine, shift through gears, and re-check the fluid level. 
Tools & Supplies 

• Safety glasses and gloves
• Car jack and jack stands or ramps
• Socket wrench set
• Drain pan or catch can
• Funnel
• Replacement transmission filter and gasket (check your owner’s manual for the correct type)
• New transmission fluid (specific to your vehicle, found in the owner’s manual)
• Rags and brake cleaner
• Torque wrench (recommended for proper tightening)

Step-by-Step Process

1. Warm up the Transmission: Start your vehicle and let it idle for 5-10 minutes to warm the fluid, then turn off the engine. 
2. Safely Lift the Vehicle: Use a car jack and place jack stands or ramps under the vehicle to safely lift and support it, ensuring you have enough clearance to work. 
3. Prepare the Pan: Place the drain pan under the transmission pan. 
4. Drain the Old Fluid: Locate the transmission pan and remove the drain plug using your socket wrench to let the old fluid drain out. 
5. Remove the Pan: If there’s no drain plug, you may need to unbolt the entire transmission pan. 
6. Replace Filter and Gasket: Carefully lower the pan and remove the old filter. Clean the pan and the mating surface where the new gasket will go, then install the new filter and gasket. 
7. Reinstall the Pan: Securely re-install the transmission pan and tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque. 
8. Add New Fluid: Using the appropriate transmission fluid specified in your owner’s manual, add it through the transmission dipstick tube or fill port with a funnel. 
9. Check the Level: Start the engine, shift through all gears, and then check the fluid level with the transmission dipstick. Add more fluid as needed until the level is correct. 
10. Cleanup and Dispose: Use rags and brake cleaner to wipe up any spills. Pour the used fluid into a lidded container for proper recycling. 

What does a transmission fluid change consist of?

It’s a procedure that normally takes an hour or less and requires equipment that you’ll find only at a professional shop. At the heart of it, the old fluid is pushed out of the transmission and tranny oil cooler and collected for disposal, then it’s filled with new fluid.

Is it better to flush or just change transmission fluid?

A transmission fluid change involves a simple gravity drain and refill, leaving some old fluid and debris behind, while a transmission fluid flush uses a machine to remove nearly all old fluid and contaminants, but risks dislodging problematic deposits in neglected or high-mileage transmissions. A fluid change is gentler and less expensive, whereas a flush is more comprehensive but carries a higher cost and potential risk if the transmission is old or poorly maintained. The best choice depends on the vehicle’s maintenance history, mileage, and manufacturer recommendations.
 
This video explains the difference between transmission fluid change and flush: 25sFixITYouTube · May 25, 2025
Transmission Fluid Change

• What it is: A standard drain and fill procedure where old fluid is drained from the pan, and new fluid is added. The transmission filter, if present, is also typically replaced. 
• Pros:
  • Less expensive than a flush. 
  • Lower risk of causing damage by not dislodging hidden deposits. 
  • Gentler on the transmission system. 
• Cons:
  • A significant portion of the old fluid (up to 60%) remains in the transmission, including in the torque converter. 
  • Does not remove accumulated sludge or contaminants from the entire system. 

Transmission Fluid Flush

• What it is: A procedure using a specialized machine that circulates new fluid through the system to remove virtually all old fluid and any attached debris. 
• Pros:
  • Removes nearly all the old, contaminated fluid. 
  • Can provide a more thorough clean-out of the transmission’s internal components. 
  • May improve performance and fuel economy. 
• Cons:
  • More expensive than a fluid change. 
  • Higher risk of damage, as the pressure can dislodge particles and deposits that may then clog delicate passages in the valve body or other parts, especially in older, neglected transmissions. 

When to Choose Which

• Choose a Change:
  • For routine maintenance on a vehicle with good fluid condition. 
  • For a high-mileage vehicle with a known, but not critical, maintenance history. 
  • To avoid the risks associated with a flush on an older or neglected transmission. 
• Choose a Flush: 
  • When the manufacturer recommends it for a vehicle with a good maintenance history. 
  • If you want the most complete removal of old fluid, and you are confident in the condition of your transmission. 

Recommendation 
Always check your owner’s manual for manufacturer recommendations regarding transmission service intervals. A qualified technician can assess your vehicle’s condition and recommend the best approach.

Can I change my transmission fluid myself?

Yes, you can change your transmission fluid yourself, though the process varies significantly between vehicles, with some being simpler “drain and fill” procedures and others requiring specialized equipment for a complete fluid exchange. The basic method involves elevating the vehicle, dropping the transmission pan to drain the old fluid, replacing the filter and gasket, reinstalling the pan, and then refilling with the correct amount and type of fluid specified in your owner’s manual. 
1. Gather the Right Supplies and Tools 

• Correct Transmission Fluid: This is the most crucial step; always use the type and brand specified in your owner’s manual to avoid damage. 
• New Filter and Gasket: Most manufacturers recommend changing the filter when you change the fluid. 
• Tools: You’ll need a socket set (like 10mm and 13mm), extensions, a torque wrench, a funnel, and a scraper or abrasive pad. 
• Safety Gear: Gloves, safety glasses, and a protective tarp or cardboard are essential. 
• Containers: A catch pan for draining old fluid and a way to add the new fluid. 

This video shows the tools and supplies needed for a DIY transmission fluid change: 1mChrisFixYouTube · Mar 24, 2016
2. Prepare the Vehicle

• Warm the Engine: Drive your vehicle for a few minutes to warm and circulate the fluid, but ensure the engine is cool enough to work on safely. 
• Lift the Vehicle: Elevate the vehicle to gain access to the transmission pan. 

3. Drain the Old Fluid

• Locate the Pan: Find the transmission pan, which is usually at the bottom of the transmission. 
• Remove the Pan: You can either drain the fluid through the transmission’s drain plug (if it has one) or by loosening the bolts on one end of the pan, allowing the fluid to drain before fully removing it. 
• Remove the Filter: With the pan lowered, you can now remove the old filter. 

4. Clean and Reassemble 

• Clean the Pan: Scrape off all old gasket material, clean the pan, and check for any metallic debris on the magnet inside the pan. 
• Install New Filter and Gasket: Securely install the new filter and the new pan gasket, using a little silicone adhesive in the corners to hold it. 
• Reinstall the Pan: Reinstall the transmission pan and tighten the bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque using a torque wrench. 

5. Refill and Check 

• Add New Fluid: Add the correct type and amount of transmission fluid, stopping just before the expected full amount to prevent overfilling.
• Check the Level: Start the engine, engage the parking brake, and shift through all gears for a short period to circulate the fluid.
• Final Check: Check the fluid level with the engine running and warm, using the dipstick (if your car has one).
• Inspect for Leaks: After the work, monitor the area under the vehicle for any signs of leaks over the next couple of days.

6. Consider the Complexity

• Vehicle-Specific: Some vehicles, especially newer ones, lack dipsticks and require special equipment for filling and level checks, making a DIY change very difficult. 
• Alternatives: If your vehicle is not suitable for a simple drain and fill, or you’re not comfortable, a full fluid flush using a specialized machine is an alternative, though this requires professional equipment.