What Type of Wrench Do You Need to Change Your Oil?

You typically need two tools: a correctly sized socket or box-end wrench for the oil drain plug, and an oil filter wrench matched to your filter style (cap/cup for spin-on filters, strap or pliers for stubborn filters, or a large socket for cartridge housings). Check your owner’s manual for the exact sizes and torque specs; most modern vehicles use metric sizes for the drain plug and have specific torque requirements for both the plug and the filter or filter housing.

Essential Wrenches and Why They Matter

Changing engine oil involves loosening a drain plug and removing an oil filter. Using the right wrench prevents rounded fasteners, leaks, and cracked plastic housings. Here’s what you’ll most likely need.

• Drain plug: A 6-point metric socket with a ratchet (or a matching-size box-end wrench) for the best grip. Finish tightening with a torque wrench to manufacturer specification.
• Spin-on filter: A cap/cup-style oil filter wrench that fits the filter’s diameter and flute count is most secure. A strap or band wrench, or oil-filter pliers, can help if it’s over-tightened.
• Cartridge filter housing: A large socket (commonly 27 mm, 32 mm, or 36 mm) for the housing cap; many are plastic and require precise torque to avoid damage.
• Optional: A torque wrench to tighten the drain plug and filter housing to spec, and new crush washer or sealing ring for the plug/housing as required.

With the right tools in hand, you reduce the risk of stripping the plug, cracking a housing, or leaving the filter too loose or too tight.

Common Sizes and Fitment Clues

While exact sizes vary by make, model, and engine, these are the sizes DIYers encounter most often. Use this as a starting point, then verify for your vehicle.

• Drain plug sockets/wrenches (metric, most common): 13 mm, 14 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm, 19 mm. Many Toyotas use 14 mm; Hondas often 17 mm; some VW/Audi and European models use 19 mm.
• Drain plug sockets/wrenches (SAE, mostly older domestics): 1/2″, 9/16″, 5/8″. Some GM/Ford trucks still use 15 mm or 5/8″.
• Spin-on cap/cup wrenches (diameter/flutes):
  – 64 mm, 14-flute is common for Toyota/Lexus spin-on filters;
  – 65–67 mm, 14-flute for many Honda/Subaru filters;
  – 74–76 mm, 14-flute for many Ford/Motorcraft and GM/ACDelco filters.
• Cartridge housings (socket sizes): 27 mm (many Toyota/Lexus), 32 mm (numerous VW/Audi), 36 mm (many BMW/Mercedes). Always confirm your engine’s spec.
• Torque ballpark (verify per manual):
  – Drain plug: roughly 20–30 ft-lb (27–40 Nm) for many cars; some trucks and steel pans may be slightly higher; some aluminum pans specify lower values (~18 ft-lb/25 Nm).
  – Spin-on filter: typically hand-tight plus 3/4 turn or per filter label; if specified, around 12–16 ft-lb.
  – Cartridge housing cap: commonly around 18–25 ft-lb (25–34 Nm), but varies by brand.

Because automakers can change specifications by engine and model year, always confirm with the owner’s manual, service manual, or the part’s labeling to avoid over- or under-tightening.

How to Confirm the Right Tools Before You Start

Before you crawl under the vehicle, a quick check can save time and prevent damage. Follow these steps to make sure you have the correct wrench sizes and torque info.

1. Consult the owner’s or service manual for drain plug size, torque, filter type, and torque for the filter or housing.
2. Visually inspect the drain plug head and the filter style (spin-on vs. cartridge). Note any special requirements (crush washer, housing O-ring).
3. Test-fit a 6-point socket on the plug; it should seat fully with no wobble. Avoid adjustable wrenches for the plug.
4. For spin-on filters, match a cap wrench to the filter’s diameter and flute count or have a strap/pliers as backup.
5. For cartridge housings, measure or confirm the socket size (often printed on the cap) and have a torque wrench ready.
6. Verify you have a new crush washer or O-ring and the correct replacement filter before draining oil.

Taking a minute to verify sizes and parts reduces the chance of rounding a bolt, cracking a housing, or discovering a missing seal mid-job.

Mistakes to Avoid and Pro Tips

Even simple oil changes can go sideways if the wrong tools or techniques are used. Keep these practical tips in mind to prevent headaches and leaks.

• Avoid 12-point sockets on stubborn plugs; 6-point sockets grip better and reduce rounding.
• Skip adjustable wrenches on the drain plug; they slip easily and can damage the hex.
• Do not over-tighten. Use a torque wrench when possible—over-tightening can strip pan threads or crack plastic housings.
• Replace the crush washer or O-ring every oil change if specified; reusing can cause slow leaks.
• Warm the engine briefly so oil flows but is not scalding hot; wear gloves and use eye protection.
• If your vehicle has a drain valve (e.g., aftermarket quick-drain), you may not need a wrench for future changes, but follow the valve’s instructions.
• Dispose of used oil and filters at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts them.

A careful setup with the right wrench, fresh seals, and proper torque yields a clean, leak-free service that protects your engine and avoids rework.

Summary

You’ll need a correctly sized 6-point socket or box-end wrench for the oil drain plug and an oil filter wrench matched to your filter type—cap/cup for most spin-on filters, a strap or pliers if it’s stuck, or a large socket for cartridge housings. Common drain plug sizes are 13–19 mm (metric) or 1/2″–5/8″ (SAE on older domestics), while common cartridge sockets include 27, 32, and 36 mm. Always confirm sizes and torque specs in your owner’s manual, replace crush washers or O-rings as required, and use a torque wrench to finish the job correctly.

Do I actually need an oil filter wrench?

Removing those filter housings typically requires a special tool. The oil filters screwed into a filter head underneath the engine are supposed to be only hand-tightened, but sometimes removing the spin-on filters will require an oil filter wrench.

What kind of jack do I need to change my oil?

hydraulic floor jack
Picking the right jack depends on your needs. A hydraulic floor jack is ideal for those who change their oil often. It provides better stability and lifts the car with less effort. A scissor jack is useful for quick jobs but takes more time to raise a vehicle.

What socket size do I need for an oil change?

You need a socket wrench (14mm or 15mm), an oil filter wrench, an oil drain pan, a funnel, and a new oil filter.

What equipment do you need to change car oil?

General Shop Tools Everyone Needs. This first group of tools are pieces that everyone needs to get started on working with their vehicles. From this group of tools, you could do an oil change on most cars with only a ratchet and socket set, a funnel, oil capture container, and a jack and jack stands.