Where is the tow hook on my car?

On most modern cars, the tow hook screws into a threaded socket hidden behind a small plastic cap in the front or rear bumper; the screw-in “tow eye” is usually stored in the trunk or cargo area toolkit. Trucks and many SUVs often have fixed, open hooks or loops visible beneath the bumpers. The exact location varies by make and model, but a quick inspection of the bumpers and your vehicle’s toolkit will usually reveal it.

How to find the tow hook on most passenger cars

While designs differ, manufacturers follow similar layouts for tow points. Use the steps below to locate and install a screw-in tow eye and confirm safe recovery points.

1. Check the bumpers for a small square or round plastic cap—often flush with the surface and sometimes marked with a tow icon or arrow.
2. Open the trunk or cargo floor and find the toolkit: look for a heavy steel “tow eye” with a threaded end, usually near the jack and wheel wrench.
3. Pry the bumper cap off gently using a plastic trim tool or the edge of a key at the small notch; keep the cap safe.
4. Insert the tow eye into the revealed threaded socket and tighten clockwise by hand until snug; then give a final firm twist using the wheel wrench through the eye for leverage (do not over-torque).
5. If no bumper socket exists, look underneath for welded loops or reinforced tie-down points on the subframe or recovery points specified by the owner’s manual.
6. If your vehicle has a trailer hitch, the hitch receiver is a rated recovery point; use a hitch-mounted recovery shackle or the safety-chain loops as directed by the manufacturer.

If these steps don’t match your vehicle, consult the owner’s manual for model-specific diagrams; some cars have only a front threaded socket, and a few omit screw-in eyes entirely in certain markets.

What the bumper cover looks like and how to remove it

The cover is typically a small painted cap about 1–2 inches wide with a tiny notch. Insert a fingernail or plastic tool at the notch and pivot outward; avoid metal screwdrivers that can mar paint. The cap is often tethered or keyed to reinstall in one orientation. Replace the cap when finished to keep debris out of the threads.

Typical locations by vehicle type

Body style and chassis design influence where tow points are placed. The list below summarizes common locations so you can focus your search effectively.

• Sedans and hatchbacks: Threaded sockets hidden in the front bumper (nearly universal) and often the rear bumper; screw-in tow eye in the trunk toolkit.
• Sports cars and performance models: Similar screw-in sockets; some have low ground clearance with sockets offset to one side to clear radiators and splitters.
• Crossovers and unibody SUVs: Usually a front threaded socket plus rear tie-down eyes beneath the vehicle; some trims add visible hooks.
• Body-on-frame SUVs and pickups: Fixed, visible forged hooks or loops under the front bumper; rear recovery often via trailer hitch receiver or welded loops near the frame.
• Electric vehicles: Threaded socket behind a front bumper cap is common; many EVs prohibit wheel-lift towing and require flatbed transport. The tow eye is in the frunk or rear cargo toolkit.

These patterns aren’t absolute, but they reflect where most owners ultimately find safe points to attach a strap or winch line.

Brand-specific clues

Manufacturers tend to repeat tow-point layouts. Use these clues if you know your make:

• BMW/Mini: Screw-in tow eye in the trunk tray; front and often rear bumper caps with small notches.
• Mercedes-Benz: Similar screw-in eye; caps sometimes marked with a tow symbol on the grille surround or bumper corner.
• Audi/VW/Porsche: Threaded sockets behind square caps; tow eye stored with jack kit. Some Porsches place the cap off-center to protect radiators.
• Toyota/Lexus: Screw-in eye in cargo toolkit; some SUVs add fixed hooks. Rear tow sockets may be absent on select North American models.
• Honda/Acura: Front threaded socket behind cap is common; rear may use tie-down loops beneath the bumper.
• Mazda: Front bumper cap with screw-in eye; rear often relies on underbody loops rather than a threaded socket.
• Subaru: Front threaded socket; rear tie-down points underneath. AWD models require flatbed towing.
• Hyundai/Kia/Genesis: Screw-in eye in toolkit; front cap easy to spot; rear solutions vary by model.
• Tesla: Screw-in tow eye installs in the front bumper behind a small cap; transport mode and flatbed are required—do not tow with driven wheels on the ground.
• Ford/GM/Ram: Sedans/crossovers use screw-in sockets; trucks and many SUVs have visible forged hooks and hitch-based rear recovery.
• JDM/European imports: Almost always include a screw-in eye in the toolkit with front and sometimes rear sockets; icons or arrows may be subtle.

If your make isn’t listed, the owner’s manual or a quick search of the bumper for a cap remains the most reliable approach.

What if you can’t find one?

Some trims or markets lack a rear threaded socket or omit the screw-in eye from the toolkit. Use these alternatives and checks to avoid damage.

• Inspect the toolkit carefully—tow eyes are heavy and may nest in foam inserts or under the spare tire floor.
• Look beneath the car for welded loops or reinforced tie-down eyes on the subframe or tow brackets used for shipping.
• If equipped, use the trailer hitch receiver with a rated recovery shackle insert; safety-chain loops can be used as directed by the hitch manufacturer.
• Never attach to control arms, sway bars, tie rods, exhaust, or thin sheet metal—these can bend or tear free.
• If in doubt, call roadside assistance; improper towing can damage bumpers, radiators, driveline components, or high-voltage systems on hybrids/EVs.

When appropriate points aren’t obvious, professional help is the safest and often the least expensive option in the long run.

Safety and towing cautions

Correct attachment is only part of safe recovery. The points below highlight key do’s and don’ts that apply broadly to modern vehicles, including EVs and AWD systems.

• Use rated recovery straps or soft shackles; avoid chains for dynamic pulls to reduce shock loads.
• Align the pull as straight as possible with the tow point; side loads can rip out threads or twist brackets.
• Tighten screw-in tow eyes fully; recheck after the first gentle tension is applied.
• AWD/4WD with automatic center differentials and most EVs must be flatbed towed; consult the manual for “transport mode” or “neutral tow” settings.
• Keep bystanders clear; recovery straps can snap and whip under load.
• For winching, use a dampener on the line and never exceed the vehicle or hardware rating.

Adhering to these practices minimizes the risk of injury and costly mechanical or body damage during recovery.

Quick visual identifiers

If you only have seconds to look, these visual cues can rapidly guide you to the tow point.

• Small square or round cap in the bumper, often with a tiny notch or tow icon.
• Forged metal loops protruding beneath the front bumper on trucks/SUVs.
• A 2-inch trailer hitch receiver at the rear center (use with rated recovery accessories).
• Underbody loops near the subframe or radiator support—look for reinforced, welded eyes rather than thin brackets.

Spotting one of these features is usually enough to identify a safe attachment point quickly.

Summary

Most cars hide a threaded tow point behind a small bumper cap; the matching screw-in tow eye lives in the trunk or cargo toolkit. Trucks and many SUVs use visible forged hooks and trailer hitches. If you don’t see a cap or fixed hook, look underneath for reinforced loops and always verify with the owner’s manual—especially for EVs and AWD, which often require flatbed transport. Never attach to suspension or thin metal, and use rated recovery gear for safe towing or recovery.

Do all cars have a tow hook?

No, not all cars have a tow hook; however, most modern cars have a concealed towing point where a detachable tow hook can be screwed in, and the hook is usually stored in the trunk. While there’s no U.S. requirement for a tow hook, European regulations do mandate a towing device on motor vehicles. If a car doesn’t have a visible or factory-included tow hook, it might lack a proper structural point for towing, so it’s best to consult the owner’s manual or manufacturer to understand if and how the car can be safely towed. 
Why some cars don’t have tow hooks:

• Regulatory differences: The United States Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards (FMVSS) do not require a tow hook, while the European Union does for certain vehicles. 
• Cost and design: Manufacturers may not include them on all vehicles to manage costs and because they are not a safety requirement in some regions. 
• Intended use: Tow hooks are more commonly found on vehicles designed for off-road use or for towing trailers. 

How to find a tow hook on your car:

1. 1. Check the trunk: Most modern cars include a detachable tow hook in the trunk with the vehicle’s spare tire and jack kit. 
2. 2. Look for a cover on the bumper: Many cars have a small, circular, or rectangular plastic cover on the front and/or rear bumper. This cover hides the threaded socket for the tow hook. 
3. 3. Consult the owner’s manual: The most reliable method is to refer to your car’s owner’s manual, which will indicate if a tow hook is included and where the attachment point is located. 

What to do if your car doesn’t have a tow hook:

• Check for a tow point: Even if there isn’t a visible tow hook, a threaded attachment point may exist under a bumper cover. 
• Consider alternative methods: If your car is not designed for towing or lacks a proper attachment point, you may need to use alternative methods for flatbed towing or recovery. 
• Contact the manufacturer: If you’re unsure, contact the vehicle manufacturer or a qualified mechanic for guidance. 

Where is the tow hook located in a car?

Hook. On pretty much any modern-day. Car you’re going to see on the front. And back of the car some sort of circular.

How to tow a car that doesn’t have a tow hook?

When pulling someone out put you strap through the rim and tire if you don’t have any tow hooks. If you’re going to use the screw in tow loop it’s for lateral pulls not side pulls. If you have steel rims get a mini j hook and hook into the rim.

Where to hook a tow strap to a car?

Hook a tow strap to the designated factory-installed recovery points on the vehicle’s frame or chassis, typically found under a plastic cover on the front bumper or on the frame rails at the rear of the car. Always check the owner’s manual to locate these secure attachment points. Avoid attaching the strap to suspension parts, the bumper itself, or the axle. 
How to Find and Use Recovery Points

1. Consult the Owner’s Manual: Your vehicle’s owner’s manual is the best source for identifying the precise location of the front and rear recovery points. 
2. Look for a Cover: On many modern cars, you’ll find a small plastic cover on the front bumper or grille. 
3. Remove the Cover: Pry off the cover to reveal a threaded hole designed for a tow hook. 
4. Install the Tow Hook: Thread the provided tow hook or eyebolt into this hole. 
5. Secure the Strap: Attach the tow strap or shackle to the installed hook or a designated loop on the vehicle’s frame. 
6. Check for Secure Attachment: Give the strap a couple of hard tugs to ensure the hook is firmly and securely attached to the recovery point. 

What to Avoid

• Do not attach the strap to suspension components: like control arms, as this can cause permanent damage. 
• Do not hook to any part of the bumper or body panels . 
• Avoid attaching to the axle, especially on solid-axle vehicles where it’s less structurally sound than the frame. 
• Never attach to aluminum control arms, as they are not strong enough for towing. 
• Do not use a hook that is not securely latched, as it can become a dangerous projectile if it comes loose.