Why your car makes a metal scraping sound when turning

Most often, a metal scraping sound during turns means a rotating part is contacting something it shouldn’t—commonly a bent brake dust shield touching the rotor, a small stone trapped near the brakes, worn brake pads or hardware, a failing wheel bearing, a CV joint issue, or a fender liner rubbing the tire. Minimize driving and inspect the brakes and front-end components as soon as possible, especially if the sound persists or worsens.

What that scraping sound signals

Scraping that appears mainly while turning usually points to components that shift under cornering load. If the noise changes with wheel speed and direction (louder when turning left vs. right), the culprit is typically something near the wheel assembly or steering/suspension. Unlike a power-steering groan or belt squeal, true metal-on-metal scraping is sharper and often tied to the rotation of the wheel, suggesting contact at the rotor, backing plate, wheel bearing, or bodywork near the tire.

The most common causes, from quick fixes to serious faults

The list below outlines frequent sources of turning-related scraping, starting with easy-to-miss issues and moving toward parts that may require professional repair.

• Bent brake dust shield touching the rotor: A thin metal backing plate can get bent by road debris, curb hits, or during brake work, lightly scraping the rotor especially in turns.
• Debris caught between rotor and shield or in the caliper: A small stone can lodge and make a rhythmic scrape that varies with wheel speed, often worse when the wheel flexes in a turn.
• Worn brake pads or wear indicator: When pads get thin, the wear indicator or backing plate can contact the rotor, sounding like scraping or grinding that may change with steering angle.
• Rust lip or uneven rotor surface: A ridge on the rotor’s edge can rub the pad or shield as loads shift in a corner; after wet or humid nights, surface rust can briefly scrape until cleaned by braking.
• Loose/shifted brake hardware or caliper bolt: Missing anti-rattle clips, seized sliders, or a loose caliper guide pin can let parts touch the rotor intermittently in turns.
• Failing wheel bearing: As the car leans, a worn bearing can allow rotor contact with the shield or produce a metallic scrape/droning that changes when turning one direction.
• CV axle/joint issues: Outer CVs usually click on turns, but inner joints can grind under load; severe wear can sound like scraping when cornering or accelerating through a turn.
• Fender liner or splash shield rubbing the tire: Broken clips or damaged plastic can drag on the tire or wheel, often only at certain steering angles.
• Loose heat shield or undertray: Thin metal heat shields or underbody panels can bend into the wheel’s path and scrape intermittently.
• Parking brake shoes (drum-in-hat rotors) delaminating: Material inside rear rotors can separate and scrape, sometimes most noticeable in low-speed turns.
• Hubcap/trim ring contact: Decorative rings or caps can flex and rub the wheel while cornering, producing a light metallic scrape.

These causes range from a five-minute fix (bending a shield back) to safety-critical failures (bearings, brakes). If you’re unsure, prioritize a brake and wheel-end inspection.

Quick checks you can do safely in your driveway

You can often narrow the problem before visiting a shop. The steps below emphasize safety and simple observations that don’t require specialized tools.

1. Note the pattern: Is the noise worse turning left or right, at low vs. high speed, or only when braking? Directional changes point to bearings or shields; brake-dependent changes implicate pads/rotors/hardware.
2. Look through the wheel spokes with a flashlight: Check for shiny scrape marks on the rotor edge and ensure the dust shield isn’t touching. If a small pebble is wedged, gently dislodge it.
3. Inspect tire and inner fender: Turn the steering full lock each way and look for rubbed plastic, loose liners, dangling undertrays, or missing clips.
4. Check pad thickness: If you can see the pads, less than about 3 mm of friction material means they’re due. Deep grooves in the rotor also suggest metal contact.
5. Wheel play test (front and rear): With the car safely lifted and secured, grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o’clock and at 9 and 3. Excess play can indicate a wheel bearing or ball joint issue. Spin the wheel and listen for scraping.
6. Verify lug nuts: Ensure all are present and properly tightened to spec; loose lugs can cause rotor/wheel misalignment and scraping.
7. Check CV boots: Torn boots and slinged grease near the axle joints signal likely CV wear that can produce grinding in turns.
8. Controlled road test: In an empty lot, drive slowly in circles both directions. Lightly apply brakes—if the sound changes, suspect brake components; if it changes primarily with steering angle, suspect bearing, shield, or liner.

If any check points to brake or bearing failure—or if you’re unable to inspect safely—have the vehicle towed rather than driven.

When to stop driving and call a professional

Some symptoms indicate an immediate safety risk. Use the list below to decide when to park the car and arrange service or towing.

• Continuous grinding or scraping that gets louder quickly.
• Reduced braking performance, soft pedal, pulsing, or pull while braking.
• Burning smell, smoke, or a wheel that’s too hot to touch.
• ABS or brake warning lights, or any steering/suspension warning.
• Severe vibration, wobble, or the sensation the wheel might bind.
• Recent curb/pothole impact followed by new scraping noises.

Driving on failing bearings or metal-to-metal brakes can escalate costs and risk wheel or brake failure. It’s safer—and often cheaper in the long run—to stop and fix it promptly.

What a shop will do to diagnose it

A technician will road-test to reproduce the noise, lift the vehicle, and inspect wheel ends, brakes, shields, and suspension. They’ll check pad thickness, rotor runout and scoring, dust shield clearance, caliper hardware torque and slider movement, wheel bearing play, CV joints and boots, and fender/underbody clearances. If needed, they may remove the wheel and rotor to clear debris or inspect parking brake shoes.

Typical repair costs in 2025 (U.S. estimates)

Actual prices vary by vehicle, region, and labor rates (often $100–$200/hr). These ranges reflect common scenarios for modern cars, including SUVs and EVs.

• Bend/adjust or replace a brake dust shield: $0–$150 (adjust) or $75–$300 (replace).
• Remove debris/stone from rotor area: $0–$100.
• Front or rear pads and rotors (per axle): $250–$650 (mainstream), $400–$1,000+ for performance/large EVs.
• Caliper hardware service or slider repair: $120–$300; caliper replacement $200–$600 each.
• Wheel bearing/hub assembly (per corner): $350–$900; press-in bearings toward the higher end.
• CV axle replacement: $300–$800 per axle (FWD); $600–$1,200 on some AWD/performance models.
• Fender liner/undertray repair: $50–$250 (clips/fasteners/panel).
• Parking brake shoe service (drum-in-hat): $200–$500.
• Hubcap/trim ring fix or replace: free–$100.

Early diagnosis often turns a potential bearing or brake overhaul into a simple shield adjustment or debris removal.

Prevention tips

Regular care reduces scraping risks, especially if you drive in wet, sandy, or potholed areas.

• After storms or gravel roads, rinse wheels and brakes to clear grit.
• Avoid deep puddles and curb strikes that bend shields or liners.
• Torque lug nuts to spec after tire rotations to prevent rotor misalignment.
• Have brakes inspected at least annually; service caliper slides and hardware.
• Replace rusted backing/dust plates and worn fender liner clips promptly.
• For EVs and hybrids, use friction brakes periodically to clean rotor rust that can cause light scraping after damp nights.

Small maintenance steps go a long way toward preventing the metal-on-metal contact that produces scraping noises.

Bottom line

A scraping sound when turning usually means unintended contact at the wheel end—most commonly a dust shield, debris, worn brakes, a bearing under load, or bodywork rubbing the tire. If the noise is persistent, growing, or accompanied by braking/handling changes, stop driving and get a professional inspection. Quick attention can turn a worrisome scrape into an inexpensive fix and keep you safely on the road.

Summary

Turning-related scraping is typically caused by a bent brake shield, trapped debris, worn pads or hardware, a failing wheel bearing, CV joint wear, or fender/underbody panels contacting the tire. Verify the pattern, perform simple visual checks, and seek immediate service if braking or handling is affected. Repairs can range from no-cost adjustments to several hundred dollars, with prompt diagnosis often preventing major failures.

Is it safe to drive a car with scraping noise?

It depends on the cause: Safe but Annoying: Loose heat shield, brake dust shield, or light surface rust on brakes. Urgent Attention Needed: Bad starter motor, failing pulley, or engine mount issues. Unsafe to Drive: Grinding from the transmission or brakes that worsens when driving.

Why does my car sound like it’s grinding metal?

Typically, the grinding noise will come from either the front or rear brakes, but generally not both. The repair may include new brake pads and rotors. A worn CV (constant velocity) joint can cause your vehicle to make grinding noises when making tight turns at slow speeds.

When I turn the steering wheel, I hear a metal sound.?

A metal sound when turning your steering wheel indicates metal-on-metal contact, most often caused by a worn steering rack or failing power steering pump, but can also be from a loose belt, a failing CV joint, bad wheel bearing, or a brake component rubbing. Since this is a safety concern, you should have a mechanic inspect the vehicle to diagnose the specific issue and prevent further damage. 
Common Causes

• Power Steering System Issues:
  • Low or dirty power steering fluid: Not enough fluid can cause components to grind, and fluid contaminated with metal filings from wear indicates internal damage. 
  • Worn power steering pump or rack: These components can wear internally, leading to metal filings and metal-on-metal contact. 
  • Loose or failing power steering belt: A loose belt can slip and cause a grinding noise. 
• Steering & Suspension Components:
  • Worn CV joints: These can make grinding or clicking noises, especially when turning. 
  • Dry or worn steering column bearings: Lack of lubrication can lead to metal-on-metal contact. 
  • Failing struts or strut bearings: These components can produce various noises, including metallic sounds when turning. 
• Wheel & Brake Components:
  • Bad wheel bearing: A grinding noise from a wheel bearing that gets louder as you accelerate is a serious concern and requires immediate attention. 
  • A stone or debris in the brakes: Sometimes, a pebble caught in the brake caliper or rotor can cause a metallic scraping sound when turning. 
  • Loose or damaged brake components: A loose caliper or bracket could rub against the wheel or other parts. 

What You Should Do

1. Check power steering fluid: If your car has a hydraulic power steering system, check the power steering fluid level. 
2. Listen closely: Try to pinpoint if the noise is coming from the front wheels, the steering column, or the engine bay. 
3. Seek professional help: A metal sound when steering is a significant safety concern. It’s best to have a qualified mechanic inspect the vehicle to properly diagnose the problem and make any necessary repairs. 

Why does my car make a scraping sound when I turn?

A scraping noise when turning can stem from issues with your car’s brakes, such as a damaged dust shield or worn pads, or it could indicate a problem with the wheel bearings, CV joints, or other suspension components. To diagnose, first try to determine the direction of the sound and if a specific action, like turning left or right or braking, triggers it. A quick inspection of the brake rotor and dust shield for contact or a rock may reveal the problem, but for more complex issues like wheel bearings or CV joints, it’s best to consult a professional mechanic.
 
Common Causes

• Brake Issues: A metal dust shield that has become bent and is now touching the rotor can cause a scraping sound. Worn or thin brake pads can also cause scraping. 
• Worn Wheel Bearings: These components reduce friction between the axle and wheel. When they wear out, they can cause a grinding or scraping noise that increases with speed and is more pronounced during turns. 
• Failing CV Joints: Worn constant velocity (CV) joints are common culprits for grinding or scraping sounds, especially during sharp, slow turns. 
• Suspension Problems: Worn or damaged suspension components, like a ball joint, can create noise when the suspension is stressed during a turn. 
• Lodged Object: A rock or other debris stuck between the brake rotor and the dust shield can create a scraping sound as the wheel spins. 

What You Can Do

1. Note the Details: Pay attention to when the noise occurs (e.g., turning left, right, or braking). 
2. Inspect the Brakes: If you can safely do so, you can try to look for a rock or a bent dust shield by removing the wheel and inspecting the brake assembly. 
3. Consult a Mechanic: Because the issue could be a serious problem with the wheel bearings or CV joints, it’s best to have a mechanic diagnose and fix the problem to ensure your safety. 

This video demonstrates how to inspect a car for a scraping noise when turning: 33sDIY-timeYouTube · May 9, 2021