Why Your Power Steering Stopped Working

Your power steering most likely failed because of a fluid leak or broken serpentine belt in a hydraulic system, or a low-voltage, blown fuse, or sensor/motor fault in an electric power steering (EPS) system. Safely pull over, check for warning lights, look for leaks or a missing belt, verify fluid level if equipped, and assess battery/charging health if you have EPS before driving further.

How Power Steering Works Today

Modern vehicles use one of three systems to reduce steering effort. Traditional hydraulic power steering uses a belt-driven pump and fluid pressure to assist turning. Electric power steering (EPS) replaces hydraulics with an electric motor on the rack or column controlled by sensors and a module. Electro-hydraulic systems combine an electric pump with hydraulic assist. Each can fail in different ways: hydraulics typically get noisy and leak; EPS often shows a dash warning and can cut out intermittently, especially with low battery voltage.

Most Likely Causes

Several common issues can suddenly eliminate steering assist. The likely cause depends on whether your car uses a hydraulic or electric setup and what symptoms you noticed (noises, warning lights, temperature, or recent work).

• Hydraulic systems

  • Low or leaking fluid from hoses, pump, reservoir, or steering rack
  • Broken or slipping serpentine belt (also drives the alternator and, on many cars, the water pump)
  • Failing power steering pump (whining, groaning, metal in fluid)
  • Clogged reservoir screen/filter or contaminated fluid (dark, burnt smell, foamy)
  • Air in the system after a leak or recent work
  • Internal rack-and-pinion failure causing heavy steering or uneven assist
  • Cold-weather thickened fluid, especially with incorrect or old fluid

• Electric power steering (EPS)

  • Low battery voltage or weak alternator (assist cuts out, EPS/steering light on)
  • Blown fuse/relay or poor ground/loose battery terminals
  • Faulty torque or steering-angle sensor, or EPS control module fault
  • Overheated EPS motor after extended parking-lot maneuvers; assist returns after cooling
  • Damaged wiring or water intrusion/corrosion at connectors
  • Software glitch after a jump-start or low-voltage event

• Other mechanical issues

  • Seized intermediate steering shaft U-joints or column bearings
  • Binding strut top bearings or ball joints
  • Very low tire pressure or severe misalignment increasing steering effort

While hydraulic problems usually get worse gradually and are noisy, EPS failures can be sudden and intermittent. A broken belt is an immediate loss of assist and can trigger charging and cooling issues—stop driving to avoid engine damage.

What To Do Immediately If Assist Fails While Driving

If your steering suddenly becomes very heavy, you still retain manual steering control, but effort—especially at low speed—will be high. Prioritize safety and avoid forcing the wheel at full lock.

1. Grip firmly with both hands, signal, and move to a safe spot off the road; allow extra distance for turns.
2. Note warning lights (battery, temperature, EPS/steering icon) and any new noises (whine, groan, belt slapping) or smells (burnt rubber).
3. With the engine off, inspect the serpentine belt: if missing/damaged, do not continue driving; the engine may overheat and the battery won’t charge.
4. If you have a hydraulic system, check the reservoir level and condition. If it’s low, top up only with the manufacturer-specified fluid (some use ATF, others dedicated PS fluid). Do not mix types; this is a temporary measure to reach a shop.
5. If you have EPS, after parking safely, cycle the ignition off for 2 minutes and restart. Check battery terminals for looseness/corrosion and verify related fuses/relays (often labeled EPS/PS/STEER).
6. If steering remains very heavy, you see smoke, hear grinding, or the belt is off: arrange towing. Forcing the system can cause further damage or safety risks.

These steps can restore assist in minor cases (e.g., EPS voltage dip) or help you avoid compounding damage (e.g., driving with a broken belt or a major leak).

Quick Diagnostics to Narrow the Cause

A few simple checks can help distinguish an electrical, hydraulic, or mechanical fault before you see a technician.

• When is it hard? Constantly hard suggests a major hydraulic loss or mechanical bind; only at parking speeds points to marginal pump output, low fluid, or EPS issues.
• Sounds: Hydraulic whine/groan that changes with steering usually means low fluid or a failing pump; silence with a steering warning light leans EPS.
• Visuals: Wet, oily subframe or hoses indicate a hydraulic leak. A shiny, missing, or shredded belt confirms belt failure.
• Fluid check: Milky/foamy fluid suggests air; dark/burnt fluid hints overheating/contamination; metal flakes point to pump/rack wear.
• Electrical health: Battery at rest should be ~12.6V; running voltage 13.7–14.7V. Low readings can disable EPS.
• Scan for codes: An OBD-II scan can surface EPS or steering angle/torque sensor faults; many parts stores can scan basic codes.
• Temperature and time: If assist returns after cooling, EPS overheating is likely; if it improves as the car warms, thick fluid may be to blame.

These observations help you communicate clear symptoms and save diagnostic time, which can lower repair costs.

Common Repairs and Typical Costs in 2025

Repair pricing varies by vehicle, region, and parts quality, but these ranges reflect typical shop rates and parts as of 2025.

• Hydraulic hose/line replacement: $150–$600 total, depending on line and access
• Power steering pump: $350–$1,000 installed (more for some imports/performance models)
• Steering rack and pinion: $900–$2,200 installed; alignment usually required
• Serpentine belt and tensioner: $150–$450 installed
• Fluid flush/service (if specified by manufacturer): $90–$180
• EPS motor/module/column unit: $500–$1,800 installed (wide range by model)
• Battery: $120–$300; Alternator: $350–$900 installed
• Intermediate steering shaft (binding U-joints): $250–$700 installed
• Wheel alignment after steering repairs: $90–$160

Ask for a root-cause diagnosis before authorizing major parts—replacing a pump won’t fix a leak at the rack, and an EPS module won’t help if the alternator is weak.

Prevention Tips

Routine checks reduce the chance of sudden steering-assist loss and can catch wear before it becomes expensive.

• Check power steering fluid level and condition at each oil change (if your car uses hydraulic assist)
• Inspect belts, tensioners, and hoses annually; replace cracked, glazed, or noisy components
• Keep battery terminals clean and the charging system healthy; EPS is voltage-sensitive
• Avoid holding the wheel at full lock for more than a few seconds; it overheats pumps and EPS motors
• Use only the manufacturer-specified fluid and service intervals; avoid mixing fluids
• Protect underhood electrical connectors from corrosion; don’t pressure-wash directly at the rack or column

These simple habits improve reliability and extend the life of steering components.

When to See a Professional

Seek expert help promptly if steering is consistently heavy, you see leaks, the belt is damaged, the EPS/steering light stays on, assist cuts out repeatedly, or you hear grinding/whining. Check for recalls or technical service bulletins using your VIN on the NHTSA site or your manufacturer’s portal—some EPS and steering rack issues have covered repairs or software updates. After flood exposure or collision damage, have the entire steering system inspected before driving.

Summary

Power steering commonly fails from a hydraulic fluid leak or broken belt, or from low voltage, blown fuses, or sensor/motor faults in EPS-equipped cars. Pull over safely, inspect for leaks and belt issues, verify fluid if applicable, and check electrical health and fuses on EPS systems. Avoid driving with persistent heavy steering and arrange professional diagnosis to prevent further damage and restore safe operation.