How Much Does It Cost to Replace an Idle Air Control Valve?

Expect to pay about $150–$450 total in the U.S. for most idle air control (IAC) valve replacements in 2025—typically $50–$250 for the part and $75–$250 for labor. Costs can be higher if the valve is integrated into the throttle body ($300–$1,000+). Many newer vehicles don’t have a separate IAC valve because they use electronic throttle control, so verify your vehicle’s design before pricing the job.

What the IAC Valve Does—and Which Cars Have One

The idle air control valve modulates airflow bypassing the throttle plate to maintain a stable idle when the engine is cold, under load (A/C, power steering), or returning to idle. It’s common on cable-throttle engines from the late 1980s through the mid‑2000s, and on some trucks and SUVs into the early 2010s. Vehicles with electronic throttle control (“drive‑by‑wire”) generally don’t use a standalone IAC; idle is controlled by the throttle body motor. In some cases, the IAC is built into the throttle body, raising replacement costs.

Typical Cost Breakdown (U.S., 2025)

Parts

Aftermarket IAC valves usually run $50–$250. OEM parts are often $120–$350, depending on brand and availability. If the IAC is integrated into the throttle body, the assembly can cost $300–$900 or more.

Labor

Most IAC replacements take 0.5–1.5 hours. At common shop rates ($90–$170 per hour), labor typically lands between $75 and $255. Some vehicles require an idle relearn procedure and benefit from throttle body cleaning, adding modest time and cost.

Real-World Price Ranges by Vehicle Type

The following examples illustrate typical totals for parts plus labor; actual quotes vary by location, shop rate, and parts choice.

• Jeep Wrangler/Grand Cherokee (4.0L, late 1990s–mid‑2000s): $120–$220
• Ford F‑150 (early‑2000s 4.6L/5.4L): $150–$260
• Honda Civic/Accord (late‑1990s–mid‑2000s): $220–$380 (OEM parts trend higher)
• Toyota Camry/Corolla (early‑ to mid‑2000s): $200–$350
• Electronic throttle vehicles: No separate IAC; idle issues may require throttle body service ($100–$200 cleaning) or throttle body replacement ($400–$1,200+)

These ranges reflect common scenarios: straightforward access keeps costs lower, while OEM parts, tight engine bays, or integrated designs push totals higher.

What Drives the Price Up or Down

Several factors influence the final bill beyond the basic parts-and-labor estimate.

• Vehicle design and access: Tight packaging or intake removal increases labor time.
• Parts choice: OEM typically costs more than quality aftermarket; some brands have pricier units.
• Regional labor rates: Urban and coastal markets usually charge more per hour.
• Additional services: Throttle body cleaning and idle relearn may be recommended.
• Diagnostic time: Shops may bill extra to confirm the IAC is the true cause of the idle issue.
• Availability: Supply constraints or dealer-only parts can raise prices and lead times.

Understanding these variables helps explain why two quotes for the “same” job can differ substantially.

Is Cleaning an Option?

Yes—if the issue is carbon buildup rather than an electrical or mechanical failure. Cleaning can restore function and often costs $0–$20 DIY (cleaner and a new gasket) or $100–$200 at a shop when combined with throttle body service. This is most effective on older stepper‑motor or pintle‑style IACs that are dirty but not worn out.

1. Disconnect the battery, remove the IAC, and inspect the gasket.
2. Use throttle body or MAF‑safe cleaner to dissolve carbon on the pintle and passages; do not soak the electrical portion.
3. Allow to dry, install a new gasket if needed, reinstall, and perform any required idle relearn.

If cleaning doesn’t improve idle or scan data shows an unresponsive IAC, replacement is usually the fix. For vehicles without a separate IAC, cleaning the throttle body often resolves unstable idle.

DIY vs Professional Replacement

Whether to tackle the job yourself depends on access, tools, and your comfort working around the intake and electrical connectors.

• DIY: Typically a 30–90 minute job with basic hand tools; saves labor cost but requires careful handling of connectors, gaskets, and relearn procedures.
• Shop: Provides proper diagnosis, correct relearn, and a parts/labor warranty; higher cost but less risk, especially if the issue might not be the IAC.

For many owners, paying for a proper diagnosis can prevent unnecessary parts replacement and ensure the idle issue is solved the first time.

Avoiding Misdiagnosis

Erratic idle isn’t always the IAC. A few quick checks can save time and money.

• Inspect for vacuum leaks (hoses, intake gasket, PCV system).
• Clean the throttle body and check for sticky plates.
• Scan live data for IAC counts/steps or duty cycle and commanded vs actual idle speed.
• Verify TPS, MAF/MAP, and coolant temperature sensor readings are plausible.
• Check for TSBs or PCM updates addressing idle problems for your model.

Confirming these basics helps ensure the IAC isn’t replaced when another fault is to blame.

Warranty and Part Quality

Choosing the right part and warranty can protect your investment.

• OEM parts: Best fit and performance but higher price.
• Reputable aftermarket: Good balance of cost and reliability; avoid ultra‑cheap no‑name units.
• Warranty: Look for at least 12‑month/12,000‑mile coverage; some aftermarket brands offer longer terms.

Given the IAC’s role in drivability, quality matters—especially on vehicles known to be picky about idle control components.

Bottom Line

Most IAC valve replacements cost $150–$450, depending on the vehicle, part choice, and labor rates. If your car uses an integrated or electronic throttle body, costs can rise to $300–$1,000+ or the IAC may not exist at all. Start with proper diagnosis and consider cleaning; when replacement is needed, use quality parts and ensure an idle relearn is performed.

Summary

The key takeaways below distill what to expect and how to keep costs under control.

• Typical IAC replacement: $150–$450 total; parts $50–$250, labor $75–$250.
• Integrated/electronic throttle scenarios can run $300–$1,000+ instead of a simple IAC swap.
• Many newer vehicles have no separate IAC; verify your system before buying parts.
• Cleaning may resolve carbon‑related idle issues for far less money.
• Diagnose first—vacuum leaks, throttle body deposits, or sensor faults often mimic bad IACs.

Get a written estimate that itemizes parts, labor time, and any diagnostic or cleaning charges so you can compare quotes confidently.

How much does it cost to replace an idle control valve?

Idle Control Valve Replacement pricing for various cars

Cars	Estimate	Parts Cost
2009 Chevrolet Malibu	$315	$168.54
2014 Ford C-Max	$334	$187.92
2016 Audi A7 Quattro	$491	$345.16
2010 BMW X5	$497	$350.81

Is it better to clean or replace an idle air control valve?

Cleaning the IAC won’t provide any benefits, so it’s best not to waste your time on it. If it’s malfunctioning, consider replacing it, as the issue lies with the DC motor rather than dirt. However, if the throttle body or plate is dirty, cleaning it can lead to noticeable improvements.

Can I drive with a faulty idle air control valve?

Technically, you may be able to drive with a bad IAC—but you should not continue doing so. A bad IAC can potentially lead to stalling, which can compromise vehicle safety. Plus, you won’t pass a state emissions test if the check engine light is on due to a bad IAC.

What are the symptoms of a failing idle air control valve?

Here’s what to be on the lookout for:

• Unsteady Idle Speed. Remember, the main role of the IAC valve is to maintain consistent idling.
• Hard Engine Start.
• Random Engine Stalls and Shutdowns.
• Poor Acceleration.
• Persistent Check Engine Light.